GUNUNG · Italia

Monte Cevedale

Monte Cevedale / Zufallspitze

Information

Elevation: 3.769 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Grup Ortles-Cevedale (Alpen Ortler), perbatasan Lombardia (Sondrio) dan Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol; dalam Taman Nasional Stelvio
Mountain type: Puncak berselimut gletser di grup Ortles-Cevedale; klasik ski-mountaineering dan hochtour dengan puncak selatan (3.769 m) dan puncak utara Cima Cevedale/Zufallspitze (3.757 m)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4481, 10.6208
Difficulty: Berat (alpine PD): pendakian gletser dengan crampon, kapak es, dan tali; risiko crevasse; punggung salju/es menjelang puncak; menuntut pengalaman glasier atau pemandu
Best Season: Akhir musim dingin–awal musim panas (Maret–Juni) untuk ski-mountaineering; Juli–September untuk hochtour musim panas saat kondisi gletser paling stabil
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin pendakian; menginap umumnya di Rifugio Casati (3.269 m) atau Rifugio Pizzini/Rifugio Nino Corsi — reservasi musim ramai sangat disarankan. Akses via Val dei Forni (Santa Caterina Valfurva) atau Val Martello
Hazards: Crevasse tersembunyi di Vedretta del Cevedale, terutama setelah salju segar; penyusutan gletser membuka rekahan baru dan seracs; badai sore dan white-out; suhu beku di ketinggian sepanjang tahun

Description

Monte Cevedale (3,769 m) is one of the most iconic summits of the Ortles-Cevedale group (Ortler Alps), straddling the border of Lombardy and Trentino-Alto Adige within Stelvio National Park. It has two tops: the southern summit at 3,769 m — the highest point of Trentino province — and the northern summit Cima Cevedale, or Zufallspitze (3,757 m), where the three provinces of Sondrio, South Tyrol, and Trentino meet. Draped in the broad Vedretta del Cevedale glacier, the mountain is one of the classic ski-mountaineering and hochtour objectives of the Italian Alps, often combined with Palon de la Mare or Gran Zebrù. The normal route starts from Rifugio Casati (3,269 m) and crosses the glacier with crampons and rope. Like other Alpine glaciers, the Vedretta del Cevedale is visibly receding under warming, changing route conditions from year to year.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Pendekatan dari Val dei Forni via Rifugio dei Forni & Rifugio Pizzini ke Rifugio Casati

Berat: trek pendekatan panjang lalu penyeberangan gletser; umumnya pendakian dua hari dengan bermalam di pondok

10.00 km +1100 m ~3 jam pendekatan ke Casati (hari pertama), lalu via normale (hari kedua)

The classic multi-day approach from Val dei Forni (Santa Caterina Valfurva) that forms the main logistical route to Rifugio Casati. From Rifugio dei Forni (2,178 m), the trail climbs to Rifugio Pizzini (2,700 m) and then to Rifugio Casati (3,269 m) in about 3 hours — usually done on day one to overnight. The next morning climbers continue on the via normale across the glacier to the summit. An alternative approach comes from Val Martello on the South Tyrol side. The route gives full views of the Ortles-Cevedale group and is one of the best-known ski tours in the Stelvio area.

Route Segments

1

Rifugio dei Forni (2178 m) → Rifugio Pizzini (2700 m)

⏱ 1,5–2 jam 2.700 mdpl

Jalur lembah menanjak; basis populer sebelum naik ke Casati
2

Rifugio Pizzini (2700 m) → Rifugio Casati (3269 m)

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 3.269 mdpl

Menanjak ke Passo del Cevedale; pondok tinggi tempat bermalam sebelum pendakian puncak
3

Rifugio Casati → Puncak Cevedale (3769 m) via normale

⏱ 2–3 jam 3.769 mdpl

Penyeberangan gletser dengan perlengkapan glasial; lihat rute Via Normale

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Monte Cevedale (3,769 m) is a classic glaciated hochtour in the Ortles-Cevedale group, popular in two seasons: as a late-winter/spring ski-mountaineering tour and as a summer alpine ascent. The main base is Rifugio Casati (3,269 m) at the Passo del Cevedale, reached from Val dei Forni via Rifugio dei Forni and Rifugio Pizzini, or from the Val Martello side. The normal route travels the Vedretta del Cevedale glacier to the summit — about 2 hours from Casati at PD grade — and demands crampons, ice axe, and rope given crevasse risk. Climbers highlight the sweeping Ortles-group panorama (including Gran Zebrù and Ortles), the steepening final slope up to a bergschrund, and the glacier's retreat opening new crevasses year on year. Combinations with Zufallspitze, Palon de la Mare, or Monte Pasquale are common.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.