GUNUNG · France

Mont Pelvoux

Information

Elevation: 3.946 m
Country: France (FR)
Location / Range: Massif des Écrins (Alpen Dauphiné), Hautes-Alpes, di atas lembah Vallouise dekat desa Ailefroide
Mountain type: Puncak batu-gletser non-vulkanik di massif des Écrins; titik tertinggi disebut Pointe Puiseux (3.946 m)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 44.8981, 6.3933
Difficulty: Berat — pendakian alpine glasial (alpinisme), bukan trek jalan kaki. Voie normale menuntut penguasaan crampon, kapak es, dan pengamanan tali di gletser; couloir bersalju/es curam dan navigasi seracs saat turun
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September (kondisi salju & gletser paling stabil); berangkat sangat dini dari refuge untuk salju keras dan hindari batu jatuh siang hari
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin formal; berada di dalam Parc national des Écrins (patuhi aturan taman). Umumnya menginap di Refuge du Pelvoux (2.704 m, FFCAM) sebelum serangan puncak; reservasi refuge sangat disarankan pada musim ramai
Hazards: Retakan gletser (crevasse), jatuhan batu di couloir Coolidge, seracs & rappel saat turun via Glacier des Violettes, salju lunak siang hari, penemuan jalur di gletser luas, serta perubahan cuaca dan badai petir sore

Description

Mont Pelvoux (3,946 m, its highest point being the Pointe Puiseux) is one of the great mountains of the Écrins massif in the Hautes-Alpes of France, rising above the Vallouise valley near the climbers' village of Ailefroide. Because of its prominent stance and glaciated dome, it was long believed to be the highest peak of the Dauphiné until surveys showed the Barre des Écrins to be higher. Pelvoux's first recorded ascent came in 1828 during a topographic survey, and it is fixed in alpine history through the Coolidge couloir, named after the mountaineer-historian W. A. B. Coolidge. Its normal route is no walk-up: from the Refuge du Pelvoux (2,704 m) climbers cross the Sialouze glacier, ascend the steep Coolidge couloir to around 3,600 m, and reach the Pointe Puiseux; many teams do it as a traverse, descending the Glacier des Violettes among seracs. Because of its glacial, technical terrain, Pelvoux is an objective for experienced alpinists rather than recreational hikers, and the whole area lies within the Écrins National Park.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Traversée par le Glacier des Violettes (descente)

AD (Assez Difficile); turun gletser bercelah dengan seracs dan beberapa rappel

Variasi turun dari puncak (beberapa jam; total course sebagai traversée penuh sehari dari refuge)

The classic traverse variant: after reaching the Pointe Puiseux via the Coolidge couloir, descend the Glacier des Violettes among large seracs, with a few short rappels, then cross the remains of the Névé Pélissier before returning to the valley. More rewarding alpinistically but demanding careful glacier and timing management; a very early start is essential so the Glacier des Violettes is descended in good snow conditions.

Source

Voie normale — Couloir Coolidge (dari Refuge du Pelvoux)

PD+/AD (Peu Difficile plus–Assez Difficile); course glasial dengan couloir salju/es curam, butuh crampon, kapak es, dan teknik tali

2 hari (hari 1: Ailefroide/Vallouise → Refuge du Pelvoux ±3 jam; hari 2: summit push ±5–7 jam ke puncak, total PP dari refuge biasanya 8–11 jam)

The normal route on Mont Pelvoux. Day one: a ~3-hour climb from the Ailefroide/Vallouise area to the Refuge du Pelvoux (2,704 m) via switchbacks and a small rock band. Day two starts before dawn: from the refuge to the Sialouze bosse, up the Sialouze glacier, then up the steep Coolidge couloir to emerge around 3,600 m onto the Pelvoux glacier, reaching the Pointe Puiseux (3,946 m). Descend by the same line, or — as the classic traverse — down the Glacier des Violettes among seracs with a few rappels; that option demands a very early start for firm snow.

Route Segments

1

Ailefroide/Vallouise → Refuge du Pelvoux

⏱ ±3 jam 2.704 mdpl

Jalur setapak bermarkah menanjak; hari pertama aklimatisasi & menginap di refuge
2

Refuge → Bosse & Glacier de Sialouze

⏱ 2–3 jam 3.300 mdpl

Berangkat dini hari; masuk gletser dengan crampon dan tali; waspada crevasse
3

Couloir Coolidge → Glacier du Pelvoux

⏱ 1,5–2 jam 3.600 mdpl

Couloir salju/es curam; titik teknis utama; jatuhan batu bila terlambat
4

Glacier du Pelvoux → Pointe Puiseux

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 3.946 mdpl

Kubah gletser puncak; panorama Barre des Écrins & Ailefroide

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Mont Pelvoux (3,946 m) is a glacial alpine course at the heart of the Écrins massif, not a simple hike. The usual pattern is a ~3-hour first-day walk from the Ailefroide/Vallouise area up to the Refuge du Pelvoux (2,704 m), then a pre-dawn start to cross the Sialouze glacier and climb the steep Coolidge couloir to around 3,600 m before reaching the Pointe Puiseux. Many parties do it as the classic traverse — up the Coolidge couloir and down the serac-laden Glacier des Violettes with a few rappels. Experience reports stress starting very early for firm snow, staying alert to crevasses and rockfall, and the sweeping summit panorama over the Barre des Écrins, Ailefroide and the Vallouise valley.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.