GUNUNG · Nepal

Mera Peak

मेरा पिक (Mera Peak)

Information

Elevation: 6.476 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himalaya, Barun sub-section, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Mountain type: Non-volcanic trekking peak (Himalayan orogenic rock, NMA 'trekking peak' class)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.7083, 86.8683
Difficulty: PD (Peu Difficile) — non-technical but serious: glacier travel with crampons and ice axe above 6,000 m, extreme altitude, unpredictable weather; substantial prior alpine experience is strongly recommended
Best Season: October–November (autumn, best visibility) and April–May (spring); avoid the rainy season (June–September) and winter (December–February)
Permits & Rules: NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) trekking peak climbing permit required: USD 250/person (spring/autumn) or USD 125 (winter/monsoon) + a USD 500 garbage deposit. A Makalu Barun National Park permit (~USD 30) and a Khumbu Pasang Lhamu permit (~USD 20) are also required.
Hazards: Acute mountain sickness (AMS, HAPE, HACE) above 6,000 m; hidden glacier crevasses; sudden weather changes and strong winds; fragile snow bridges; extreme temperatures at high camps; strict requirement for graduated acclimatization

Description

Mera Peak (6,476 m) is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, classified by the Nepal Mountaineering Association as a non-technical high-altitude climb — though the 'trekking peak' label is deceptive, as this is a serious high-altitude mountaineering objective. The mountain has three summits: Mera North (6,476 m, the main summit), Mera Central (6,461 m, site of the first ascent in 1953 by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing), and Mera South (6,065 m). From Mera North's summit, climbers enjoy a sweeping 360-degree panorama of five 8,000 m giants — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Cho Oyu — making it one of the most spectacular Himalayan viewpoints accessible without specialized technical climbing skills. The standard route departs from Lukla (2,860 m) by flight from Kathmandu, crosses the Zatrwa La pass (4,610 m), passes through remote villages of Kote and Thuli Kharka, and ascends to Khare (5,045 m) as base camp. The summit push departs from High Camp (5,780 m) before dawn, climbing a broad glacier with crampons and ice axe, with fixed ropes on the steeper sections near the summit ridge.

Gallery

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Routes

Rute Standar via Zatrwa La – Lembah Hinku (Jalur Klasik)

PD (Peu Difficile) — glacier non-teknis; crampon 12-point, ice axe, dan harness wajib; fixed rope tersedia di bagian curam mendekati puncak

17–21 hari total dari Kathmandu (14–17 hari jalan kaki pulang-pergi dari Lukla); summit day ~5–7 jam dari High Camp

The most common route to climb Mera Peak. The journey starts with a Kathmandu–Lukla flight (2,860 m). From Lukla, the trek heads north through Paiya, Panggom, Ningsow, and Thuli Kharka before climbing the Zatrwa La Pass (4,610 m) — a critical early acclimatization point. Descend from Zatrwa La into the remote Hinku Valley to Kothe (3,600 m), then continue up the valley through Thuli Kharka (4,350 m) to Khare (5,045 m), Mera Peak's main base camp. At Khare, teams rest 1–2 nights for acclimatization. The next day, ascend through glacial moraine to Mera La (5,415 m) then to High Camp (5,780 m) on the glacier edge. Summit day departs around 2–3 AM from High Camp: climb the broad glacier (gaining roughly 700 m elevation) in rope teams with crampons and ice axe, passing a steep fixed-rope section below the summit, to Mera North's summit ridge (6,476 m). The summit panorama takes in Everest (8,849 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,485 m), Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), and Cho Oyu (8,188 m) — five 8,000 m peaks simultaneously.

Route Segments

1

Kathmandu → Lukla (penerbangan)

⏱ ~35 menit terbang 2.860 mdpl
2

Lukla → Zatrwa La Pass (4.610 m) → Kothe (3.600 m)

↑ 1750 m ⏱ 3–4 hari 3.600 mdpl
3

Kothe → Thuli Kharka (4.350 m)

↑ 750 m ⏱ 2 hari 4.350 mdpl
4

Thuli Kharka → Khare / Kamp Dasar (5.045 m)

↑ 695 m ⏱ 1–2 hari 5.045 mdpl
5

Khare → Mera La (5.415 m) → High Camp (5.780 m)

↑ 735 m ⏱ 1 hari 5.780 mdpl
6

High Camp → Puncak Mera North (6.476 m) PP

↑ 696 m ⏱ 5–7 jam naik, 3–4 jam turun 6.476 mdpl
7

Kembali ke Lukla

⏱ 4–5 hari 2.860 mdpl

Source

Climbing Experiences

A Mera Peak expedition (6,476 m) typically takes 17–21 days from Kathmandu, starting with a flight to Lukla and a gradual walk through the remote Hinku valley before reaching base camp at Khare (5,045 m). Many climbers stress how serious this peak is despite its 'trekking peak' classification: staged acclimatization is critical, the glacier demands full glacial equipment, and Himalayan weather can change drastically. But from Mera North's summit, the panorama of five 8,000 m giants — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Cho Oyu — is consistently described as one of the most unforgettable views in all the Himalaya.

References

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