GUNUNG · China (Tibet) — di dekat perbatasan Nepal

Melungtse

Melungtse (Menlungtse / 门隆则峰)

Melungtse (7.181 m), puncak tertinggi Rolwaling Himal. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.181 m
Country: China (Tibet) — di dekat perbatasan Nepal (CN)
Location / Range: Rolwaling Himal (Gaurishankar massif), Himalaya — Tibet/Nepal
Mountain type: Puncak tertinggi Rolwaling Himal, sebuah massif es dengan puncak utama (Melungtse I, 7.181 m) dan puncak barat (Melungtse II/West, 7.023 m); salah satu puncak paling sulit dan lama tak terdaki di Himalaya
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9711, 86.4375
Difficulty: Pendakian teknis kelas dunia (alpine berat) — dinding es-batu curam, cornice, dan bahaya longsor; hanya untuk ekspedisi berpengalaman. Puncak utama baru sekali digapai (1992)
Best Season: Pra-monsun (April–Mei) dan pasca-monsun (Sept–Okt); pendakian bersejarah puncak utama justru dilakukan akhir Oktober
Permits & Rules: Berada di sisi Tibet, China — akses menuntut izin pendakian dan pengaturan lewat otoritas Tibet/CTMA; pendekatan dari Rolwaling (Nepal) atau lembah Menlung (Tibet)
Hazards: Dinding tenggara setinggi ±2.000 m yang sangat terpapar longsoran salju dan es, cuaca Himalaya yang cepat memburuk, ketinggian ekstrem, dan medan teknis berkelanjutan tanpa jalur mudah

Description

Melungtse (Menlungtse, 7,181 m) is the highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal, rising on the Tibetan side near the Nepal border, not far from Gaurishankar. The massif carries a main summit, Melungtse I (7,181 m), and a slightly lower west summit (~7,023 m), linked by a long, heavily corniced summit ridge. For years it was one of the most coveted yet difficult unclimbed high peaks in the Himalaya. Chris Bonington led expeditions here in 1987 and 1988; the west summit was finally reached on 23 May 1988 by Andy Fanshawe and Alan Hinkes. The main summit was not climbed until 23 October 1992, when Slovenians Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj ascended the dangerous ~2,000 m south-east face in pure alpine style — up and down in under two and a half days — an achievement remembered as a landmark of Himalayan alpinism. Because of its technical difficulty and remoteness, Melungtse remains very rarely climbed, and for most visitors it is admired from the Rolwaling valley trek below.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Tenggara (South-East Face) — pendakian pertama puncak utama, gaya alpine

Ekstrem (alpine berat, dinding es-batu ±2.000 m yang terpapar longsoran)

± kurang dari 2,5 hari pulang-pergi (ekspedisi 1992)

The south-east face is the line of the first ascent of the main summit, Melungtse I, completed by Slovenians Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj on 23 October 1992 in pure alpine style. The ~2,000 m face is steep and avalanche-prone; the round trip was made in under two and a half days and is regarded as a landmark of modern Himalayan alpinism.

Source

Puncak Barat (Melungtse West, ±7.023 m) — pendakian pertama 1988

Sangat sulit (alpine teknis)

Ekspedisi bertahap (musim semi 1988)

Melungtse's west summit (~7,023 m) was first reached on 23 May 1988 by Andy Fanshawe and Alan Hinkes, part of the Chris Bonington–era expeditions to the massif. The route avoided the long, corniced main summit ridge and was the first major success on Melungtse.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Melungtse is rarely climbed, so this set combines a peak-profile documentary, historical expedition accounts from the Bonington era, and footage of the Rolwaling valley trek that runs directly below its northern flanks. Together they show why the main summit is so hard and how the valley at its foot can be explored by ordinary trekkers. All links were verified live before inclusion.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.