GUNUNG · China (Tibet) — di dekat perbatasan Nepal

Melungtse

Melungtse (Menlungtse / 门隆则峰)

Melungtse dari barat daya; puncak utama di belakang kanan / Melungtse from the southwest; main summit behind on the right. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.181 m
Country: China (Tibet) — di dekat perbatasan Nepal (CN)
Location / Range: Rolwaling Himal, Himalaya
Mountain type: Gunung non-vulkanik / Non-volcanic mountain
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9711, 86.4375
Difficulty: Ekspedisi alpine teknis; dinding es dan batu / Technical alpine expedition; ice and rock faces
Best Season: Catatan historis: upaya pada April–Mei; puncak utama dicapai Oktober 1992 / Historical record: April–May attempts; main summit reached October 1992
Permits & Rules: Bonington mendokumentasikan izin ekspedisi China/Tibet pada 1988; bukan keterangan izin atau akses masa kini / Bonington documents China/Tibet expedition permission in 1988; this does not establish current permission or access
Hazards: Laporan ekspedisi mencatat badai, cornice rapuh, longsoran serta jatuhan batu dan es / Expedition reports describe storms, fragile cornices, avalanches, and falling rock and ice

Description

Melungtse, also spelled Menlungtse (7,181 m), is the highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal in Tibet, China. It rises north of the Menlung Chu valley near Nepal; Nepal’s Rolwaling valley lies across the main range. A long ridge links the principal eastern summit with western Melungtse II (7,023 m). Andy Fanshawe and Alan Hinkes reached the west summit on 23 May 1988. Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj reached the main summit via the southeast face on 23 October 1992. The expedition accounts below document climbing history rather than travel schedules or confirmation of current access.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Tenggara — puncak utama / Southeast Face — main summit

Dinding es sekitar 55°; bahaya objektif besar / Ice face around 55°; serious objective hazards

22–24 Oktober 1992 / 22–24 October 1992 (historical ascent)

Prezelj and Štremfelj’s first-ascent line to the main summit. The roughly 2,000 m ice face had a dangerous lower section; descent followed the same line by rappelling and downclimbing. The duration records the 1992 ascent, not a general estimate.

Source

Sisi Barat — Melungtse II / West side — Melungtse II

Mixed hingga Scottish Grade V menurut laporan / Mixed climbing up to Scottish Grade V in the account

19–24 Mei 1988 / 19–24 May 1988 (historical summit push)

Fanshawe and Hinkes followed the west side and climbed a loose-rock headwall to the west summit on 23 May 1988. This line reaches Melungtse II, not the main summit. Bonington’s account describes a historical climb, not a trekking trail.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Four climbers’ accounts document the 1987 attempt, the 1988 west-summit success, the 1990 attempt and the main summit’s first ascent in 1992. Two supplementary videos introduce Melungtse and trekking in Nepal’s Rolwaling valley; neither is treated as footage of reaching Melungtse’s summit. The Tsho Rolpa trek is not a summit route into Tibet.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.