GUNUNG · Pakistan

Masherbrum

Masherbrum / K1 / مشربرم

Information

Elevation: 7.821 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Masherbrum Mountains, Karakoram — Ghanche District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Mountain type: Mountain peak (non-volcanic, Karakoram granite)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.6425, 76.3053
Difficulty: Very difficult to extreme; a technical route with avalanche and rockfall hazards; the 22nd highest in the world
Best Season: June–August (the Karakoram summer climbing window)
Permits & Rules: Climbing permit from the Alpine Club of Pakistan and the Department of Tourism; approach from the Hushe Valley, Ghanche District
Hazards: Avalanches, rockfall on the Northwest Face, unstable seracs, the fast-changing bad weather of the Karakoram, technical altitude in the 7,000-meter range

Description

Masherbrum (7,821 m), also known as K1 as the first peak surveyed in the 1856 Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, is the world's 22nd-highest and Pakistan's 10th-highest mountain. It stands at the southern end of the Karakoram in Ghanche District, Gilgit-Baltistan, ringed by near-vertical granite walls on all sides. The Balti word 'brum' means mountain, and locals call it the 'Queen of Peaks'. The first ascent was completed on July 6, 1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld of the American-Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch, via the Southeast Face. Alongside that standard route, the Northwest Ridge — first climbed in 1985 by a Japanese-Austrian expedition — is recognized as one of the Karakoram's most technically demanding lines: a 2,000-metre wall of granite and mixed ice.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Northwest Ridge — Rute Teknis (1985)

Ekstrem (dinding 2.000 m granit-es campuran, rock hingga 5.9, es hingga 85°)

Ekspedisi ±6–8 minggu (alpine style, sangat teknis)

The Northwest Ridge was first climbed by a Japanese-Austrian expedition in 1985 in semi-alpine style. The route ascends a nearly 2,000-metre northwest wall of hard granite and extreme ice, with technical difficulties reaching rock grade 5.9 and ice slopes up to 85 degrees. It stands as one of the most technically demanding routes in the entire Karakoram, reserved for world-class climbers experienced in high-altitude mixed terrain.

Source

Southeast Face — Rute Standar (Pendakian Pertama 1960)

Sangat sulit (teknis campuran, 7.000-an)

Ekspedisi ±5–7 minggu (termasuk aklimatisasi dan perjalanan ke base camp)

The Southeast Face is the route used by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld in Masherbrum's first ascent on July 6, 1960. The approach starts from Hushe Valley in Ghanche District to base camp, then climbers ascend through a system of four high camps on the southeast face, crossing mixed ice and snow terrain requiring full technical gear. This is the most frequently attempted route on Masherbrum, though difficulty and objective hazard remain very high.

Route Segments

1

Hushe Valley → Base Camp

3.850 mdpl

Pendekatan beberapa hari dari desa Hushe; porter lokal umumnya tersedia
2

Base Camp → Camp I

5.200 mdpl

Medan gletser dan morena; perlu aklimatisasi bertahap
3

Camp I → Camp II

5.900 mdpl

Medan es dan salju yang semakin curam
4

Camp II → Camp III

6.600 mdpl

Teknis campuran; paparan angin dan cuaca tinggi
5

Camp III → Puncak (7.821 m)

7.821 mdpl

Bagian paling teknis dan terpapar; jalur summit ridge menuntut kondisi cuaca stabil

Source

Climbing Experiences

Masherbrum (7,821 m / K1), the 'Queen of Peaks' of the Karakoram and the world's 22nd-highest mountain. These records document real expeditions to one of Pakistan's most technically demanding 7,000ers — from a 3D route visualisation, a dramatic on-mountain incident, a Mammut athlete expedition, to David Lama's attempt on the unclimbed west face.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.