GUNUNG · Italy
Marmolada
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 3.343 m
- Country
- Italy (IT)
- Location / Range
- Dolomiti (Dolomites) — highest peak of the Dolomites, between the Province of Belluno and Trentino-Alto Adige
- Mountain type
- Carbonate peak (non-volcanic, limestone & dolomite) — part of the UNESCO Dolomites World Heritage Site
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 46.4383, 11.8625
- Difficulty
- Moderate–strenuous (the normal route uses the gondola cable car plus a via ferrata or mountain trail; the alpine route on the north side requires ice/snow skills)
- Best Season
- July–September (the Marmolada gondola operates in summer; the glacier is increasingly shrinking)
- Permits & Rules
- No special permit for the normal route; some routes pass through the Dolomiti Superski area, which charges gondola fares
- Hazards
- An active glacier that keeps shrinking and is unstable (the July 2022 glacier collapse disaster killed 11 climbers — beware of serac zones in summer); rapidly changing weather, wind exposure, falling rock and ice
Description
Marmolada (3,343 m) is the highest peak in the Dolomites, dubbed the 'Queen of the Dolomites' for the majesty of its silhouette dominating the northeastern Italian skyline. The Dolomites where Marmolada stands were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009. The highest summit, Punta Penia (3,343 m), is flanked by the Marmolada Glacier — the largest in the Dolomites, but rapidly shrinking due to climate change. Disaster struck on 3 July 2022 when a large serac broke off from the north face and killed 11 people, reminding the world of the real dangers posed by unstable glaciers. The Marmolada Glacier now covers around 1.5 km², down from over 15 km² in the early 20th century. At the glacier's foot sits the Museo della Grande Guerra (World War I Museum), chronicling high-altitude combat between Austria and Italy from 1915–1918 — tunnels carved into the glacier by Austrian soldiers are still partially visible. Marmolada is also celebrated as a ski and alpinism destination, with via ferrata routes and a gondola facilitating access to altitude.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Via Ferrata Marmolada — Jalur Pendaki Aktif
Berat; via ferrata dengan kabel baja di seksi curam; butuh harnes via ferrata dan set lengkapThe more athletic version of the Marmolada ascent using a via ferrata route that avoids the gondola entirely or uses only the first gondola. The Marmolada via ferrata traverses the southern limestone walls of the massif, using steel cables, iron steps, and occasional wooden planks as aids. This route provides a far more immersive mountain-climbing experience — every metre of altitude is earned by hand and foot. The via ferrata is entirely on the safe south side and does not intersect with the dangerous glacier zone. A via ferrata harness, two lanyards, and a helmet are mandatory equipment.
Route Segments
- 1
Malga Ciapela (1.450 m) → Basis Via Ferrata (~1.700 m)
Jalur pendakian normal di hutan dan padang rumput sebelum tiba di awal seksi via ferrata; persiapkan harnes dan helm sebelum memulai via ferrata
- 2
Basis Via Ferrata → Serauta (2.950 m)
Seksi via ferrata utama dengan kabel baja dan pijakan besi di dinding batu kapur vertikal; bereksposur tinggi tapi aman bila digunakan dengan benar; pemandangan dramatis ke lembah di bawah
- 3
Serauta (2.950 m) → Punta Penia (3.343 m)
Lanjutkan dari stasiun gondola Serauta via jalur berbatu menuju puncak; bisa juga naik gondola kedua ke Punta Rocca untuk mempersingkat bagian ini
Via Gondola Malga Ciapela — Rute Normal (Sisi Selatan)
Moderat; jalan kaki dari Punta Rocca ke Punta Penia; sebagian jalur di lereng batuanThe most popular and accessible route to Marmolada, using the Malga Ciapela gondola system which rises in stages from 1,450 m to Punta Rocca (3,265 m). From the upper gondola station, a walk of 1–2 hours across rocky south-face terrain leads to Punta Penia (3,343 m) — the highest summit. Since the July 2022 disaster, climbers are strongly advised not to cross the active glacier zone on the north side; the southern gondola route avoids the glacier entirely and is considered safe. The gondola operates in summer (typically June–October, depending on snow conditions). From Punta Penia, views encompass the entire Dolomites: Civetta, Pelmo, Tofane, Sella, and on clear days even the Austrian Alps to the northeast.
Route Segments
- 1
Malga Ciapela (1.450 m) → Serauta (2.950 m) via Gondola
Gondola pertama dari parkir Malga Ciapela; stasiun Serauta memiliki museum Mini Museo della Grande Guerra dengan relik Perang Dunia I
- 2
Serauta (2.950 m) → Punta Rocca (3.265 m) via Gondola
Gondola kedua ke Punta Rocca; stasiun atas memiliki restoran dan teras pandang; mulai pendakian kaki dari sini
- 3
Punta Rocca (3.265 m) → Punta Penia (3.343 m)
Jalur berbatu di sisi selatan massif; ikuti tanda dan cairn; hindari area gletser dan tepi utara puncak; angin kencang umum — bawa pakaian hangat ekstra
Climbing Experiences
Marmolada offers two very distinct climbing characters: the accessible south side with a gondola and via ferrata for the majority of visitors, and the glacial north face which is the domain of experienced alpinists. The normal route on the south side departs from Malga Ciapela (1,450 m), takes staged gondolas to Punta Rocca (3,265 m), then continues on foot to Punta Penia (3,343 m) in 1–2 hours. Before the July 2022 disaster, routes crossing the Marmolada Glacier were more popular — authorities now recommend avoiding the active glacier zone due to ice instability from global warming. Many climbers now arrive to honour the 2022 tragedy while witnessing first-hand how dramatically the glacier has retreated. The World War I Museum at the gondola base is also an attraction — tunnels built by Austrian soldiers inside the glacier during 1915–1918 can still be visited.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.