GUNUNG · Italy

Marmolada

Marmolada (Ladin: Marmolèda)

Information

Elevation: 3.343 m
Country: Italy (IT)
Location / Range: Dolomiti (Dolomites) — highest peak of the Dolomites, between the Province of Belluno and Trentino-Alto Adige
Mountain type: Carbonate peak (non-volcanic, limestone & dolomite) — part of the UNESCO Dolomites World Heritage Site
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4383, 11.8625
Difficulty: Moderate–strenuous (the normal route uses the gondola cable car plus a via ferrata or mountain trail; the alpine route on the north side requires ice/snow skills)
Best Season: July–September (the Marmolada gondola operates in summer; the glacier is increasingly shrinking)
Permits & Rules: No special permit for the normal route; some routes pass through the Dolomiti Superski area, which charges gondola fares
Hazards: An active glacier that keeps shrinking and is unstable (the July 2022 glacier collapse disaster killed 11 climbers — beware of serac zones in summer); rapidly changing weather, wind exposure, falling rock and ice

Description

Marmolada is the highest peak of the entire Dolomites (3,343 m at Punta Penia) and is known as the "Queen of the Dolomites". Straddling the border of Trentino and Veneto in north-eastern Italy, the ultra-prominent massif has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites since 2009. Its north side holds the largest — and only major — glacier of the Dolomites (the Marmolada Glacier), while its south side drops away as a vertical rock wall several kilometres long that is a landmark in climbing history. The summit ridge steps down eastward through Punta Penia (3,343 m), Punta Rocca (3,309 m), Punta Ombretta, Monte Serauta and Pizzo Serauta; a cable car reaches Punta Rocca. Paul Grohmann made the first ascent in 1864 by the north route, and the famous south face was first climbed in 1901 by Beatrice Tomasson with guides Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel. During World War I the Austro-Hungarian–Italian front line ran across Marmolada, and soldiers tunnelled a "City of Ice" inside its glacier. On 3 July 2022 a huge serac collapse killed 11 climbers, a tragedy that spotlighted the glacier's retreat under a warming climate.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Selatan (South Face) — rute panjat tebing klasik

Panjat tebing berat (hanya pemanjat berpengalaman)

Sepanjang hari (multi-pitch, tergantung jalur)

Marmolada's multi-kilometre south face is one of the most storied rock walls in the Alps and holds many multi-pitch climbing routes. Its historic line was first climbed in 1901 by Beatrice Tomasson with guides Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel. For experienced rock climbers only, with full technique and protection.

Source

Kereta gantung ke Punta Rocca + area ski

Wisata / non-teknis

Beberapa menit (kereta gantung) hingga setengah hari

A cable car from Malga Ciapela carries visitors up near Punta Rocca (3,309 m), giving non-technical access to glacier views and Dolomites panoramas. In winter, Marmolada's main ski run allows a descent into the valley. Suitable for tourists without alpine gear.

Source

Via Ferrata Cresta Ovest → Punta Penia (rute normal)

Via ferrata bergletser (menengah–sulit; butuh perlengkapan ferrata, crampon & es)

± 5–7 jam pulang-pergi dari kereta gantung/Pian dei Fiacconi

The most common ascent to the highest point, Punta Penia (3,343 m). From the west it crosses the glacier then follows the cabled West Ridge (via ferrata). The terrain mixes ice and rock with high exposure; a helmet, harness, ferrata set, crampons and ice axe are required for the glacier section.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Marmolada offers two worlds of experience: the glaciated "West Ridge" via ferrata to Punta Penia as the normal route, and the multi-hundred-metre south wall for rock climbers. The clips below cover the via ferrata ascent to the summit, solo climbs of the west ridge, and footage of the glacier and the aftermath of the 2022 collapse — all underscoring the mix of beauty and risk of the "Queen of the Dolomites".

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.