GUNUNG · Slovenia / Italia

Mangart

Mangrt (Slovenia) / Mangart (Italia)

Information

Elevation: 2.679 m
Country: Slovenia / Italia (SI)
Location / Range: Alpen Julian (Julijske Alpe), perbatasan Slovenia–Italia; di atas Lembah Koritnica dan Lembah Mangart
Mountain type: Puncak batu kapur/dolomit non-vulkanik di Alpen Julian; puncak tertinggi keempat Slovenia
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4400, 13.6539
Difficulty: Berat: kedua jalur normal memakai via ferrata dengan kabel baja, pin, dan tangga di medan sangat bereksposur; start tinggi dari Mangart Saddle (~2.055 m) memangkas ketinggian tetapi tetap menuntut kepala dingin dan perlengkapan ferrata
Best Season: Akhir Juni–September (jalan Mangart & jalur bebas salju); di luar itu salju/es membuat via ferrata berbahaya
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin pendakian; akses via Mangartska cesta (jalan tertinggi di Slovenia) menuju parkir Mangart Saddle — jalan musiman, ditutup saat bersalju
Hazards: Seksi via ferrata sangat bereksposur; batu jatuh (rockfall) di jalur; kabel dapat dialiri listrik saat badai petir; cuaca Alpen berubah cepat; jalan sempit berkelok menuju sadel

Description

Mangart (or Mangrt, 2,679 m) is a mountain in the Julian Alps on the border between Italy and Slovenia. It is the fourth-highest peak in Slovenia, after Triglav, Škrlatica and Mali Triglav, and was first climbed in 1794 by the naturalist Franz von Hohenwart. 'Mangart' is also the name of the range between the Koritnica and Mangart valleys, whose highest top is Veliki Mangart (Big Mount Mangart). The mountain is famous for the Mangart road — the highest road in Slovenia — which winds up to the Mangart Saddle (~2,055 m), where most climbers begin. From the saddle, two via-ferrata routes (the Slovenian and the Italian route) climb exposed cabled and pinned terrain to the summit, rewarding walkers with sweeping views toward Triglav, the Julian Dolomites and Italy's Friuli plain.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur Italia (Via Italiana) dari Mangartsko sedlo

Via ferrata C (hingga C/D) — sangat terpapar, banyak tangga besi

5.00 km +624 m ±6–7 jam pulang-pergi

The Italian route is more technical and continuously cable-protected than the Slovenian one. It climbs almost relentlessly through long vertical sections, exposed traverses and numerous iron rungs and ladders, with strong height exposure to the 2,679 m summit. Suited to those experienced in via ferrata; rockfall risk on the vertical faces is real, so a helmet is essential and clear weather strongly advised.

Source

Jalur Slovenia (Slovenska pot) dari Mangartsko sedlo

Via ferrata B / scramble UIAA 1+

4.50 km +624 m ±5 jam pulang-pergi

From the Mangartsko sedlo car park (2,055 m), the Slovenian route crosses the west face via a steep gully to the 2,679 m summit. It mixes well-secured cabled sections with unprotected stretches; the cable ends below the peak, so light scrambling is needed along the upper part. More varied and interesting than a straight climb, it still demands a via-ferrata set, helmet and a cool head on exposed terrain.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Mangart (2,679 m), Slovenia's fourth-highest peak in the Julian Alps, is usually climbed from the Mangartsko sedlo car park (~2,055 m) at the end of the Mangart road — the highest paved road in Slovenia, winding through five tunnels. Because the start is already high, the remaining ascent is modest, but both normal routes use via ferrata: the Slovenian route (Slovenska pot), which mixes cabled sections with easy scrambling, and the more technical Italian route (Via Italiana), continuously cabled and highly exposed with many iron rungs. Climbers stress the rockfall danger on the vertical faces and the need for a via-ferrata set, helmet and clear weather. The summit rewards wide views toward Triglav and the Julian Dolomites.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.