GUNUNG · Pakistan

Malubiting

مالوبیتنگ (Malubiting / Malubiting West)

Information

Elevation: 7.458 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Rakaposhi-Haramosh, Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan, di atas tepi utara Sungai Indus
Mountain type: Puncak salju & es tinggi — puncak tertinggi kedua di antara Lembah Haramosh dan Hispar
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.0389, 74.9008
Difficulty: Sangat berat / ekstrem untuk pendakian puncak (7000-an teknis, sangat jarang didaki); trek Rush Lake ke titik pandangnya tergolong sedang
Best Season: Juni–Agustus (musim ekspedisi Karakoram); trek Rush Lake umumnya Juni–September
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin puncak 7000-an dari Gilgit-Baltistan/Pakistan untuk pendakian; pendekatan lewat Lembah Nagar/Hopar dan Gletser Chogo Lungma dengan porter & liaison officer
Hazards: Longsoran salju, jurang es, punggung terpapar pada ketinggian ekstrem, badai salju (memaksa mundur pada pendakian pertama), dan keterpencilan; medan gletser rumit di sekitar Chogo Lungma

Description

Malubiting (7,458 m), also known as Malubiting West, is the second-highest peak between the Haramosh and Hispar valleys in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. It stands at the core of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains that tower over the northern bank of the Indus River, about 50 km east of Gilgit, between Bilchar Dobani and Haramosh Peak. To the south-west Malubiting rises sharply above the Haramosh/Jutial village on the Phuparash River, while to the east the extensive Chogo Lungma Glacier originates on its slopes. Malubiting is renowned as very difficult and rarely climbed: six expeditions failed in succession (1955, 1959, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971) before an Austrian (Styrian) team led by Horst Schindlbacher finally reached the summit on 23 August 1971 via the Northeast Ridge — ascending the North Peak and skirting the Central Peak. Per the Himalayan Index there has been only one recorded repeat, by a Swiss-German team in 1997/1998 via the original route. For most people, Malubiting is best known through the Rush Lake trek above Hopar in the Nagar valley — one of the highest alpine lakes in the region and the classic viewpoint onto the mountain.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Pendekatan & titik pandang via Rush Lake (Hopar/Nagar)

Trek dataran tinggi (sedang) — bukan pendakian puncak

Trek beberapa hari ke Rush Lake

For most visitors, Malubiting is experienced not by a summit climb but from the Rush Lake trek — one of the highest alpine lakes in the region — above Hopar in the Nagar valley. The trek crosses high pastures and moraine with panoramas of Malubiting, Spantik and other Rakaposhi-Haramosh peaks, and forms the classic approach to the mountain's flanks. Expedition operators also offer itineraries to Malubiting base camp for teams intending to attempt the summit, which still demands permits and high alpine experience.

Source

Punggung Timur Laut via North Peak (rute pendakian pertama 1971)

Sangat berat / ekstrem — 7000-an bersalju & terpapar

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu bergaya berkemah bertingkat

The first-ascent route of Malubiting. After six failed expeditions (1955–1970), an Austrian (Styrian) team led by Horst Schindlbacher reached the summit on 23 August 1971 via the Northeast Ridge — ascending the North Peak and skirting the Central Peak to reach the main top. The route crosses exposed snow and ice at extreme altitude, with four high camps and a snowstorm that forced a temporary retreat. Per the Himalayan Index there has been only one recorded repeat (a Swiss-German team in 1998, essentially following the same line). Not a trekking route — for experienced alpine expeditions with official permits only.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Malubiting (7,458 m) is very rarely climbed: six expeditions failed (1955–1970) before an Austrian team made the first ascent in 1971, with only a few repeats since. Its 'experiences' are therefore in-depth accounts: two American Alpine Journal reports (the 1971 first ascent and a 1998 repeat), Horst Schindlbacher's first-hand narrative in the 1973 Alpine Journal, an ExplorersWeb profile, and a Rush Lake trek report — the classic viewpoint onto Malubiting in the Nagar valley. All verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.