Malte Brun

Information

Elevation

3.199 m

Country

Selandia Baru (NZ)

Location / Range

Pegunungan Malte Brun (Malte Brun Range), di antara Gletser Tasman dan Gletser Murchison, Pegunungan Alpen Selatan, Taman Nasional Aoraki/Mount Cook

Mountain type

Puncak batuan alpine bersalju (gunung tertinggi Pegunungan Malte Brun)

Volcanic?

No (non-volcanic)

Coordinates

-43.5640, 170.3050

Difficulty

Sangat berat / mountaineering teknis — semua jalur menuntut pengalaman dan perlengkapan alpine (es, batu, gletser). Rute klasik West Ridge bertingkat NZ Alpine 3+ dengan punggungan tajam 'Cheval'.

Best Season

Musim panas alpine Selandia Baru, kira-kira Desember–Februari (kondisi salju/es lebih stabil); pendakian musim dingin jauh lebih berat.

Permits & Rules

Berada di Taman Nasional Aoraki/Mount Cook (DOC). Tidak ada izin puncak khusus, tetapi pendakian menuntut keterampilan alpine, akses gletser, dan penanganan cuaca pegunungan tinggi; banyak pihak menyewa pemandu alpine bersertifikat.

Hazards

Medan gletser retak (Tasman/Murchison), moraine longgar pada pendekatan, punggungan tajam terpapar (mis. 'Cheval'), risiko longsoran salju/es dan batu jatuh, serta cuaca Alpen Selatan yang cepat berubah. Dua pondok pendaki (Malte Brun Hut, Beetham Hut) tak lagi tersedia—Beetham hancur oleh longsoran salju awal 1990-an.

Description

Malte Brun (3,199 m according to Land Information New Zealand) is the highest peak of the Malte Brun Range, which runs between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers in New Zealand's Southern Alps. A New Zealand Alpine Club list ranks it as the country's third-highest mountain. It was named by Julius von Haast after the French geographer Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun. The first ascent was made solo by Tom Fyfe in March 1894 via the North Face. Many technical routes now lie on the mountain, all of which demand alpine experience and equipment: the classic line is the West Ridge (NZ Alpine grade 3+), which includes the 'Cheval', a knife-edge ridge crossed by straddling it. Other major routes include the South Ridge (grade 3) and South Face (grades 4–4+). Two huts once served climbers on the lower slopes—the Beetham Hut in the Beetham Valley and the Malte Brun Hut on moraine terraces above the Tasman Glacier—but the Beetham Hut was destroyed by an avalanche in the early 1990s. Malte Brun is a true alpinism objective, not a walking track.