GUNUNG · Nepal

Makalu

मकालु / Makalu

Information

Elevation: 8.485 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Mountains, Nepal–China (Tibet) border, ±19 km southeast of Everest
Mountain type: Himalayan eight-thousander peak, non-volcanic rock
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.8892, 87.0886
Difficulty: Extremely strenuous and technical (one of the hardest eight-thousanders); requires lengthy acclimatization, steep ice/snow skills, and an exposed summit ridge
Best Season: Pre-monsoon spring (April–May) and post-monsoon autumn (late September–October)
Permits & Rules: A summit climbing permit from the Nepalese government is mandatory (royalty/peak permit), along with a Makalu Barun National Park permit, plus a liaison officer and usually a guided expedition team
Hazards: Extreme altitude (death zone >8000 m), sudden bad weather, strong winds on the summit ridge, steep ice/rock terrain near the summit, and the remoteness of the access (a long approach through the Barun valley)

Description

Makalu (8,485 m) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, rising in the Mahalangur Himalayas on the Nepal–China border, roughly 19 km southeast of Mount Everest. Its distinctive four-sided pyramid shape makes it both instantly recognizable and technically formidable, and it is often described as one of the hardest eight-thousanders to climb. The summit was first reached on 15 May 1955 by the French climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy via the north face and northeast ridge over the Makalu La saddle (~7,200 m), the line that has since become the normal route. Makalu has two subsidiary peaks, Kangchungtse (7,678 m) and Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m). Access is remote through the Barun valley within Makalu Barun National Park, and the summit climb demands long acclimatization and steep ice and snow skills at extreme altitude.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Punggungan Barat Laut via Makalu La (rute Prancis 1955)

Sangat berat & semi-teknis (8000-an); butuh keterampilan es/salju curam dan aklimatisasi ketinggian ekstrem

Ekspedisi ±40–55 hari (termasuk pendekatan, aklimatisasi, dan jendela cuaca puncak)

Makalu's normal route follows the 1955 French line via the north face and northeast ridge, over the Makalu La saddle (~7,200 m) between Makalu and its subsidiary peak Kangchungtse, before the exposed summit ridge. The approach is long and remote through the Barun valley in Makalu Barun National Park, and the climb requires several high camps and thorough acclimatization. The steep, rocky summit section makes Makalu one of the hardest eight-thousanders.

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West Pillar (Pilar Barat) — rute alpin klasik

Sangat sulit & teknis (jauh lebih berat dari rute normal); pemanjatan batu/es curam dan terbuka pada ketinggian ekstrem — hanya untuk pendaki alpin elite

Makalu's West Pillar is one of the landmark routes in Himalayan climbing history, first completed by a French team in 1971 (led by Robert Paragot and Yannick Seigneur). Unlike the normal route, the West Pillar climbs a long, steep and highly exposed rock-and-ice buttress straight toward the summit ridge, demanding sustained technical climbing above 7,000–8,000 m. Rarely repeated, it is a benchmark of commitment; it was repeated in 2009 by Denis Urubko and a partner, while lines on the adjacent west face have seen bold solo attempts such as Jerzy Kukuczka's. It suits only highly experienced alpine teams.

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Safety Statistics

High risk

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

8.6% Fatality rate per successful summit

31 Recorded deaths

361 Summits

Period 1950–2012 · Eight-thousander death-rate table (8000ers.com data), 1950 through March 2012: 361 successful summits / 31 deaths = 8.6% deaths per person reaching the top. Measured as a 'climber death rate' (deaths per climber above base camp) the figure is 1.63%. Makalu (8,485 m, the 5th-highest peak on Earth) is not as deadly by ratio as Annapurna or K2, yet it remains a hazardous eight-thousander because of its steep, exposed, remote rock-and-ice pyramid.

Causes of death

Severe weather

💡 Sudden storms at extreme altitude have killed Makalu climbers through a combination of weather and altitude illness. Respect the weather window and turnaround time; retreating early is far better than being trapped high when the weather collapses.
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Fall

💡 Falls are among the most frequently recorded causes of death on Makalu — its ridges are long, steep, and exposed, making retreat exhausting. Stay roped on technical sections, save energy for the descent, and don't move solo when severely fatigued.
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Altitude illness (AMS/HACE/HAPE)

💡 Deaths from cerebral edema (HACE) and recurring altitude illness are recorded on Makalu, including climbers who 'died in their sleep' at altitude. Acclimatise gradually, limit time in the death zone (>8000 m), and descend the moment severe symptoms (crushing headache, ataxia, breathlessness) appear.
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Exposure / hypothermia

💡 Forced bivouacs and cold exposure near the summit have caused deaths from frostbite and hypothermia. Carry adequate insulation and emergency bivvy gear, and plan so you are not stranded overnight near the top.
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Avalanche

💡 Avalanches have taken lives on Makalu (e.g. 1983). Watch avalanche forecasts, avoid routing beneath loaded slopes, and don't move just after heavy snowfall or a storm.
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Notable incidents

1955 First ascent of Makalu (Terray & Couzy, 1955)

On 15 May 1955 a French expedition reached Makalu's summit for the first time — one of the smoothest eight-thousander first ascents in history, with nearly the whole team topping out over a few days without casualties. It underscores how preparation, acclimatisation, and a good weather window cut risk even at extreme altitude.
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2006 2006 solo winter attempt — disappearance

In January 2006 a renowned French alpinist disappeared while attempting the first solo winter ascent of Makalu and was never found. The event is a stark reminder of the compounded risk of solo winter climbing: without a team, a small error or injury in extreme cold has no safety net.
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Statistics source: Source Source

Climbing Experiences

Makalu (8,485 m), the world's fifth-highest mountain, is known as one of the hardest eight-thousanders because of its steep pyramid shape and exposed summit ridge. The videos below document real expeditions to its summit — from full summit-push footage and successful expedition records to reflections on the brutal reality of climbing above 8,000 meters. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.