GUNUNG · Nepal

Lobuche East

लोबुचे पूर्व (Lobuche East)

Information

Elevation: 6.119 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Khumbu Himal, Himalaya
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9584, 86.7909
Difficulty: Trekking peak teknis — lebih menantang dari Island Peak (umum dinilai PD, dengan dinding puncak salju/es curam bertali tetap)
Best Season: Maret–Mei (musim semi) & September–November (musim gugur)
Permits & Rules: Permit trekking peak dari Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) + tiket masuk Taman Nasional Sagarmatha + biaya kawasan lokal Khumbu
Hazards: Dinding puncak salju/es curam yang didaki dengan tali tetap, punggungan puncak sempit berkornis dengan jurang di kedua sisi, ketinggian ekstrem & risiko AMS, gletser berkawah pada pendekatan, cuaca dingin dan terbuka

Description

Lobuche East (6,119 m) is one of the most popular 'trekking peaks' in Nepal's Khumbu (Everest) region, part of the Khumbu Himal near the Khumbu Glacier and the village of Lobuche. The mountain has two main summits: Lobuche East (6,119 m), classed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association as a trekking peak, and the slightly higher Lobuche West (6,145 m), rated an expedition peak. The East summit is climbed far more often and is a favourite for honing alpine skills before bigger objectives such as Ama Dablam or the eight-thousanders. Despite its trekking-peak status its normal route is more technical than Island Peak: a steep snow/ice summit headwall climbed on fixed ropes, followed by an exposed, corniced summit ridge. It was first climbed on 25 April 1984 by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen. As a Himalayan orogenic peak it is non-volcanic. (Note: Wikidata/OSM list 6,090 m; Wikipedia gives 6,119 m.)

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Tenggara (Southeast Ridge) — rute normal dari High Camp

Trekking peak teknis (umumnya dinilai kisaran PD alpine; operator seperti Elite Exped menilai 'Moderate 2B') — lebih menantang dari Island Peak

Hari puncak ±8–12 jam pulang-pergi dari High Camp; total perjalanan ±2 minggu (trek Everest + pendakian)

Lobuche East's normal route runs from Base Camp up to a High Camp on the rocky lower mountain, then starts the summit push around midnight. It climbs onto a glacier and up steep fixed-roped snow/ice slopes to gain the summit headwall and the exposed, corniced summit ridge. Crampons, ice axe, harness and rope-travel skills are required; there are no major crevasse fields on the normal line, but the summit headwall and corniced ridge are the crux. First climbed on 25 April 1984.

Source

South Ridge (rute normal) via Lobuche High Camp

Alpine PD (trekking peak teknis) — salju/es curam bertali tetap di lereng atas

Total ±2 minggu (trek Khumbu + pendakian); serangan puncak ±6–10 jam dari High Camp

This operator guide describes Lobuche East's normal route up the South Ridge from Lobuche High Camp: climbers set a base camp and high camp, then ascend fixed-roped snow/ice ridges to the summit. It stresses the need to practise crampon, ice-axe and jumar use, and to acclimatise properly via the Khumbu trek first.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Lobuche East (6,119 m) in the Khumbu Himal is an NMA 'trekking peak' favoured for honing alpine skills in the Everest region, usually combined with the Everest Base Camp trek. Despite its trekking-peak status, its normal route is more technical than Island Peak: a steep snow/ice summit headwall climbed on fixed ropes, followed by an exposed, corniced summit ridge. The videos and operator pages below document real climbs — from first-person summit pushes to guided expedition films. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.