GUNUNG · Pakistan

Latok I

Foto kawasan dari ISS oleh NASA (domain publik): gugus Latok, The Ogre, dan Gletser Biafo; bukan potret puncak Latok I secara terpisah.. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.145 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Panmah Muztagh, Pegunungan Karakoram, Gilgit-Baltistan
Mountain type: Puncak granit-dan-es tajam (non-vulkanik) — objek alpinisme teknis kelas dunia
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.9286, 75.8233
Difficulty: Sangat ekstrem — objek alpine teknis kelas dunia (bukan gunung trekking); hanya untuk ekspedisi alpinis elite
Best Season: Ekspedisi yang dirujuk berlangsung pada musim panas (Juli–Agustus); keberhasilan tetap bergantung pada kondisi salju dan jendela cuaca.
Permits & Rules: Catatan ekspedisi bukan panduan perizinan terkini; konfirmasikan persyaratan akses dan izin Pakistan sebelum merencanakan perjalanan.
Hazards: Longsoran salju dan es; batuan lepas; cuaca Karakoram yang cepat berubah; medan campuran es-batu curam berkepanjangan di atas 6.000 m; ketinggian; serta keterpencilan ekstrem yang membuat penyelamatan sangat sulit (terbukti pada tragedi Glazunov–Gukov 2018).

Description

Latok I (7,145 m) is a non-volcanic mountain in Pakistan’s Karakoram. A Japanese expedition reached its summit from the south in July 1979. In August 2018, Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone established a route from the Choktoi Glacier via the north side, west col and southern slopes. This did not complete the entire north ridge directly to the summit. Climbers describe steep ice, cramped bivouacs and avalanche exposure; it is a technical alpine objective, not a general trekking route.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Sisi selatan via buttress (jalur 1979)

Sangat berat (dinding tinggi Karakoram, rawan longsoran; gaya ekspedisi berkemah)

Ekspedisi bergaya berkemah, beberapa minggu (base camp 10 Juni; puncak 19 & 22 Juli 1979)

The Japanese expedition climbed the buttress left of the couloir between Latok I and III, from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier. An avalanche destroyed the initial Camp I; teams summited on 19 and 22 July 1979. This describes a historical line, not current conditions.

Source

Sisi utara–col barat–lereng selatan (jalur 2018)

ED+ (penilaian laporan ekspedisi 2018)

5–12 Agustus 2018 (tanggal ekspedisi yang dilaporkan)

From the Choktoi Glacier, the team followed the right side of the north ridge to about 6,400 m, traversed to the west col near 6,700 m and reached the summit via southern slopes. Descent approximately reversed the line.

Source

Climbing Experiences

This collection combines a film, participant reports, an interview and coverage of Latok I expeditions in 2018. Sources distinguish the successful west-col line from the north-ridge attempt and describe difficult bivouacs and evacuation.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.