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GUNUNG · Nepal

Langtang Lirung

लाङटाङ लिरुङ — puncak tertinggi Langtang Himal

Source
Langtang Lirung

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
7.227 m
Country
Nepal (NP)
Location / Range
Langtang Himal (Himalaya), Taman Nasional Langtang, di barat daya Shishapangma
Mountain type
Puncak tertinggi Langtang Himal; gunung ke-99 tertinggi di dunia
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
28.2561, 85.5194
Difficulty
Sangat sulit & berbahaya — puncak ekspedisi teknis yang jarang berhasil didaki; rasio kegagalan/kematian tinggi. Lembah Langtang di kakinya dapat dijelajahi lewat trekking (Kyanjin Gompa, Kyanjin Ri, Tserko Ri)
Best Season
Trekking Lembah Langtang: Maret–Mei & Oktober–November. Ekspedisi puncak: musim pra/pasca-monsun
Permits & Rules
Trekking wajib izin Taman Nasional Langtang + TIMS card. Ekspedisi puncak butuh izin & royalti pendakian dari pemerintah Nepal
Hazards
Lereng es & seracs sangat curam, longsoran salju (pernah terekam di sisi gunung), risiko ketinggian; lembah di kakinya pernah dilanda longsor/avalanche dahsyat akibat gempa 2015 yang menghancurkan Desa Langtang

Description

Langtang Lirung (7,227 m) is the highest peak of the Langtang Himal, a subrange of the Nepalese Himalayas southwest of Shishapangma, and is listed as the 99th highest mountain in the world. Though relatively close to Kathmandu, its summit is one of the hardest and most dangerous of its class: steep ice walls and seracs plus avalanche danger mean it is seldom climbed successfully. The mountain dominates the Langtang Valley — the heart of Langtang National Park — which is one of Nepal's most popular trekking destinations. Trekkers pass through forest and yak pastures to Kyanjin Gompa, then climb viewpoints such as Kyanjin Ri and Tserko Ri to look straight at Langtang Lirung's ice faces. The area also carries tragedy: the 2015 Gorkha earthquake triggered a huge landslide/avalanche that buried Langtang village, after which locals rebuilt the trail and settlements.

Routes

Dinding Timur (jalur 'first ascent' 2024, gaya alpine)

Pendakian alpine sangat sulit; dinding campuran es/batu >2.200 m
± 6 hari (serangan puncak)

Pendakian pertama dinding timur Langtang Lirung setinggi lebih dari 2.200 m dituntaskan Marek Holeček (Ceko) dan Ondrej Húserka (Slovakia) pada 30 Oktober 2024 setelah enam hari mendaki dalam gaya alpine. Jalur ini menembus dinding campuran es dan batu yang curam; keberhasilannya menjadi tonggak, meski Húserka meninggal saat penurunan.

Source

Rute ekspedisi puncak (dinding es sisi selatan/tenggara)

Pendakian teknis es/seracs sangat sulit & berisiko tinggi; jarang berhasil
Ekspedisi multi-minggu

Pendakian puncak Langtang Lirung menuntut manuver di dinding es dan seracs curam dengan bahaya longsoran tinggi, sehingga tergolong salah satu 7.000-an paling sulit di Nepal dan jarang berhasil didaki. Ditujukan hanya untuk tim alpinis berpengalaman dengan logistik ekspedisi penuh.

Source

Trek Lembah Langtang (Syabrubesi → Lama Hotel → Langtang → Kyanjin Gompa; + Kyanjin Ri / Tserko Ri)

Trekking sedang–berat ketinggian tinggi; non-teknis (titik pandang hingga ±4.984 m Tserko Ri)
± 7–10 hari

Jalur utama untuk menyaksikan Langtang Lirung dari dekat tanpa mendaki puncaknya. Dari Syabrubesi, trekker menyusuri hutan dan sungai ke Lama Hotel, lalu ke Desa Langtang (dibangun ulang pasca-gempa 2015) dan Kyanjin Gompa. Dari sana pendakian aklimatisasi ke Kyanjin Ri atau Tserko Ri (± 4.984 m) memberi panorama langsung dinding es Langtang Lirung dan gletser di kakinya.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Langtang Lirung footage splits in two: (1) technical climbing on the summit ice — from an expedition film by Adam Bielecki & Felix Berg and avalanche footage to its rarely-successful climbing history (first summited by a Japanese team in 1978) and the 2024 first ascent of the east face by Marek Holeček & Ondrej Húserka; and (2) Langtang Valley trekking to Kyanjin Gompa and the Kyanjin Ri/Tserko Ri viewpoints, where trekkers face Langtang Lirung's ice walls directly. Sources are alpinists, mountaineering journals (AAJ, ExplorersWeb), filmmakers and Nepali trekking operators.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Langtang Lirung en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Langtang Lirung (Q1551402) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 site Langtang Valley Trek himalayanwonders.com · EN