GUNUNG · Nepal

Langtang Lirung

लाङटाङ लिरुङ — puncak tertinggi Langtang Himal

Information

Elevation: 7.227 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Langtang Himal (Himalaya), Taman Nasional Langtang, di barat daya Shishapangma
Mountain type: Puncak tertinggi Langtang Himal; gunung ke-99 tertinggi di dunia
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.2561, 85.5194
Difficulty: Sangat sulit & berbahaya — puncak ekspedisi teknis yang jarang berhasil didaki; rasio kegagalan/kematian tinggi. Lembah Langtang di kakinya dapat dijelajahi lewat trekking (Kyanjin Gompa, Kyanjin Ri, Tserko Ri)
Best Season: Trekking Lembah Langtang: Maret–Mei & Oktober–November. Ekspedisi puncak: musim pra/pasca-monsun
Permits & Rules: Trekking wajib izin Taman Nasional Langtang + TIMS card. Ekspedisi puncak butuh izin & royalti pendakian dari pemerintah Nepal
Hazards: Lereng es & seracs sangat curam, longsoran salju (pernah terekam di sisi gunung), risiko ketinggian; lembah di kakinya pernah dilanda longsor/avalanche dahsyat akibat gempa 2015 yang menghancurkan Desa Langtang

Description

Langtang Lirung (7,227 m) is the highest peak of the Langtang Himal, a subrange of the Nepalese Himalayas southwest of Shishapangma, and is listed as the 99th highest mountain in the world. Though relatively close to Kathmandu, its summit is one of the hardest and most dangerous of its class: steep ice walls and seracs plus avalanche danger mean it is seldom climbed successfully. The mountain dominates the Langtang Valley — the heart of Langtang National Park — which is one of Nepal's most popular trekking destinations. Trekkers pass through forest and yak pastures to Kyanjin Gompa, then climb viewpoints such as Kyanjin Ri and Tserko Ri to look straight at Langtang Lirung's ice faces. The area also carries tragedy: the 2015 Gorkha earthquake triggered a huge landslide/avalanche that buried Langtang village, after which locals rebuilt the trail and settlements.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Timur (jalur 'first ascent' 2024, gaya alpine)

Pendakian alpine sangat sulit; dinding campuran es/batu >2.200 m

± 6 hari (serangan puncak)

Pendakian pertama dinding timur Langtang Lirung setinggi lebih dari 2.200 m dituntaskan Marek Holeček (Ceko) dan Ondrej Húserka (Slovakia) pada 30 Oktober 2024 setelah enam hari mendaki dalam gaya alpine. Jalur ini menembus dinding campuran es dan batu yang curam; keberhasilannya menjadi tonggak, meski Húserka meninggal saat penurunan.

Source

Rute ekspedisi puncak (dinding es sisi selatan/tenggara)

Pendakian teknis es/seracs sangat sulit & berisiko tinggi; jarang berhasil

Ekspedisi multi-minggu

Pendakian puncak Langtang Lirung menuntut manuver di dinding es dan seracs curam dengan bahaya longsoran tinggi, sehingga tergolong salah satu 7.000-an paling sulit di Nepal dan jarang berhasil didaki. Ditujukan hanya untuk tim alpinis berpengalaman dengan logistik ekspedisi penuh.

Source

Trek Lembah Langtang (Syabrubesi → Lama Hotel → Langtang → Kyanjin Gompa; + Kyanjin Ri / Tserko Ri)

Trekking sedang–berat ketinggian tinggi; non-teknis (titik pandang hingga ±4.984 m Tserko Ri)

± 7–10 hari

Jalur utama untuk menyaksikan Langtang Lirung dari dekat tanpa mendaki puncaknya. Dari Syabrubesi, trekker menyusuri hutan dan sungai ke Lama Hotel, lalu ke Desa Langtang (dibangun ulang pasca-gempa 2015) dan Kyanjin Gompa. Dari sana pendakian aklimatisasi ke Kyanjin Ri atau Tserko Ri (± 4.984 m) memberi panorama langsung dinding es Langtang Lirung dan gletser di kakinya.

Source

Safety Statistics

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

Indicative — small sample size.

4.53% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

13 Recorded deaths

287 Attempts

Period 1950–2024 · Himalayan Database, 1950–2024 edition, Table D-5s, p. 244: 4.53% = 13 deaths / N=287 member participations above base camp; the source's 95% confidence interval is 2.61–7.70%. Attempt means a member participation, not an expedition or unique individual; hired personnel are excluded. Independent confirmation with the same basis and period was not found. Indicative because of only 13 deaths and the long historical span; not a prediction of current risk. Narrative hazards below are not a numerical breakdown of these deaths. Evidence cannot establish annual trends or the riskiest season; settlement-disaster casualties are not pooled. · single source

Causes of death

Crevasse fall

💡 The 2024 climbing account records an ice-anchor failure during descent. Prevention lesson: inspect anchors and plan backup protection and crevasse-rescue capability with an experienced team.
Source
Avalanche

💡 An account published in AAJ 1984 records abandoning a south-ridge attempt because of heavy snow and avalanche potential. Prevention lesson: assess snow loading and camp exposure; abandon the attempt if conditions deteriorate.
Source

Notable incidents

2024 Descent accident after the east-face climb

The firsthand AAJ account records one death after an ice anchor failed and a climber fell into a crevasse during descent, after summiting on October 30. The partner's rescue attempt was unsuccessful. Lesson: reserve energy, equipment and a rescue plan for descent. This event falls within the statistical period; it is not added again to the HDB total.
Source

Statistics source: Source

Climbing Experiences

Langtang Lirung footage splits in two: (1) technical climbing on the summit ice — from an expedition film by Adam Bielecki & Felix Berg and avalanche footage to its rarely-successful climbing history (first summited by a Japanese team in 1978) and the 2024 first ascent of the east face by Marek Holeček & Ondrej Húserka; and (2) Langtang Valley trekking to Kyanjin Gompa and the Kyanjin Ri/Tserko Ri viewpoints, where trekkers face Langtang Lirung's ice walls directly. Sources are alpinists, mountaineering journals (AAJ, ExplorersWeb), filmmakers and Nepali trekking operators.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.