GUNUNG · Pakistan

Laila Peak

Information

Elevation: 6.096 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Masherbrum (Karakoram) — Lembah Hushe, dekat Gletser Gondogoro, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Mountain type: Gunung non-vulkanik (granit/batuan metamorf Karakoram) berbentuk taring/tombak yang khas
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.5917, 76.4108
Difficulty: Sangat teknis — puncak alpine curam, bukan pendakian jalan kaki; dinding barat lautnya menanjak ~45° sepanjang lebih dari 1.500 m vertikal es dan salju
Best Season: Musim panas (Juni–Agustus) untuk ekspedisi pendakian & ski; kawasan Lembah Hushe dan Gondogoro La populer untuk trekking pada rentang yang sama
Permits & Rules: Izin/pendaftaran pendakian Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) melalui operator lokal berlisensi; pendekatan lewat Lembah Hushe. Sejumlah pendakian awal dilakukan tanpa izin resmi sehingga tidak tercatat resmi
Hazards: Lereng es dan salju sangat curam, bahaya longsoran salju dan runtuhan es/batu, keterpencilan (evakuasi sulit), ketinggian ekstrem, serta kondisi cuaca Karakoram yang berubah cepat; beberapa kecelakaan fatal tercatat pada upaya ski dan pendakian

Description

Laila Peak (about 6,096 m) is one of the most iconic and instantly recognisable summits in the Karakoram: its slender, spear- or fang-like silhouette makes it one of the most photographed mountains in Pakistan. It rises in the Hushe Valley near the Gondogoro Glacier in the Masherbrum Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan. Though far from the tallest peak in the range, Laila is famous for its extremely steep northwest face — roughly a 45-degree slope stretching more than 1,500 vertical metres — which has made it a coveted objective for technical climbers and ski mountaineers. The first known ascent came in 1987 by a British team (including Simon Yates, Andy Cave, Tom Curtis and Sean Smith) via the northwest side, but it was made without an official permit and so is not counted as an official ascent under the Pakistani regulations of the time. The first winter ascent was recorded in February 2013 by Alex Txikon and José Fernández. Laila has also been a stage for extreme skiing history: its first integral ski descent was completed by the French trio Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein, while Polish ski-alpinist Andrzej Bargiel also skied it. Its beauty and its danger go hand in hand — a 2016 ski attempt ended tragically with the death of Italian climber Leonardo Comelli. For non-technical trekkers, the peak is most often admired as a dramatic view from the Gondogoro La trekking route.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Barat Laut (Northwest Face) — rute klasik/standar

Sangat teknis (es & salju curam) — kemiringan sekitar 45° sepanjang lebih dari 1.500 m vertikal; bukan pendakian jalan kaki

Ekspedisi ~2–3 minggu (termasuk trekking pendekatan lewat Lembah Hushe, aklimatisasi, dan dorongan summit teknis)

Jalur paling dikenal dan paling sering dicoba di Laila Peak adalah dinding barat laut yang menghadap Gletser Gondogoro. Pendekatan dilakukan dari desa-desa Lembah Hushe menuju base camp di sekitar Gondogoro, dilanjutkan pendakian teknis di lereng es-salju yang sangat curam. Rute inilah yang ditempuh pendakian pertama tim Inggris pada 1987 dan menjadi garis idaman para ski-alpinis untuk turunan ski. Karena kecuraman dan bahaya longsoran/runtuhan es, jendela cuaca dan kondisi salju sangat menentukan keberhasilan.

Source

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.