GUNUNG · Swiss

Lagginhorn

Information

Elevation: 4.010 m
Country: Swiss (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Pennine (Walliser Alpen), gugusan Weissmies — di atas Saas-Grund, Valais
Mountain type: Puncak batu (four-thousander Alpen Pennine, nyaris tanpa gletser)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.1572, 8.0031
Difficulty: Hochtour/pendakian campuran tingkat pemula-menengah — rute normal punggungan barat-daya (Westsüdwestgrat/Südgrat) dinilai PD, panjat batu/blok mudah dengan sedikit atau tanpa penyeberangan gletser
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September; puncak berbatu paling aman saat kering dan bebas es baru
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin; basis pendakian umumnya Weissmieshütte (SAC) di atas Kreuzboden/Saas-Grund
Hazards: Batu lepas dan rockfall di punggungan berbatu, medan terpapar, risiko tersesat di kabut di sepanjang punggungan panjang, cuaca ketinggian, dan bahaya petir

Description

The Lagginhorn (4,010 m), also known as the Laquinhorn or 'ts Lagg'ii' in the Saas dialect, is a four-thousander in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland, a few kilometres north of the slightly higher Weissmies and close to the Fletschhorn on the north. It is the last four-thousander in the main chain before the Simplon Pass and is the second-lowest four-thousander (number 58 of 60) in Switzerland. Being a rocky, mostly unglaciated summit, the Lagginhorn is one of the few Alpine 4,000 m peaks reachable without any necessary glacier crossing, so it is often seen as a 'beginner four-thousander' and can be climbed solo by experienced mountaineers. The first ascent was on 26 August 1856 by Edward Levi Ames with three other Englishmen, the local Saas-Grund clergyman Johann Josef Imseng, Franz Andenmatten and three other guides. The normal route follows the west-south-west ridge from the Weissmieshütte.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Westsüdwestgrat (punggungan barat-daya) dari Weissmieshütte

Hochtour PD — panjat blok batu mudah dengan sedikit atau tanpa penyeberangan gletser wajib; terpapar di bagian punggungan

2 hari (menginap di Weissmieshütte; hari puncak ~5–7 jam pulang-pergi)

The normal route up the Lagginhorn (4,010 m) follows the west-south-west ridge (Westsüdwestgrat/Südgrat) from the Weissmieshütte (~2,730 m) above Kreuzboden/Saas-Grund. From the hut it climbs over moraine and small glacier remnants to the base of the ridge, then scrambles increasingly exposed blocks and loose rock to the rocky summit. Because the peak is almost unglaciated, it is one of the few Alpine 4,000ers reachable without a necessary glacier crossing — often regarded as a 'beginner four-thousander' and climbable solo by the experienced. Beware loose rock/rockfall and the risk of losing the way in mist along the long ridge.

Source

Climbing Experiences

The Lagginhorn (4,010 m), a rocky, mostly unglaciated four-thousander above Saas-Grund, is often called a 'beginner 4,000er' because its normal west-south-west ridge route from the Weissmieshütte needs no glacier crossing. German-language videos capture the approach via the Weissmieshütte and the blocky rock ridge to the summit; this now adds English textual trip reports (a solo report, an 'ideal beginner four-thousander' guide, a SummitPost page, and the official Swiss Alpine Club/SAC route portal) — all verified live. Despite its easy reputation, every source stresses the rockfall danger on the upper ridge and the need for a helmet and crampon technique on hardened firn.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.