GUNUNG · Pakistan

Kunyang Chhish

کنیانگ چش (Kunyang Chhish / Khunyang Chhish)

Kunyang Chhish dari timur laut / Kunyang Chhish from the northeast — Theprotrekker, CC BY-SA 4.0. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.852 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan, north of the Hispar Glacier
Mountain type: Non-volcanic peak with rock, snow and ice terrain
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2053, 75.2078
Difficulty: Technical climbing at extreme altitude; expedition accounts describe steep ice and a bergschrund near the summit
Best Season: The cited expeditions took place from June to August; historical accounts do not guarantee weather conditions
Permits & Rules: The 2013 expedition account describes obtaining a permit before climbing; this historical source does not establish current requirements or fees
Hazards: Expedition accounts record avalanches, serac and ice collapse, crevasses and bergschrunds, storms and extreme altitude

Description

Kunyang Chhish, also spelled Khunyang Chhish (7,852 m in Wikidata), is a Hispar Muztagh peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram, north of the Hispar Glacier. A Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada first reached the main summit in 1971 via the southern face and south ridge. In 1988, Mark Lowe and Keith Milne reached the summit by the northwest spur and north ridge: this was the mountain’s second ascent by a different line, not a repeat of the 1971 route. The lower East summit, around 7,400 m, is a separate objective; Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer, and Simon Anthamatten first climbed it via the southwest face in July 2013. Their account describes retreats, acclimatization, and avalanche and storm hazards. These records document technical expeditions and do not establish a statistical fatality rate or current access conditions. Kazuo Tobita’s account of the 2003 expedition records the west-ridge team switching its objective to a 6,100 m snow peak as terrain hazards and dwindling supplies intervened; reaching that subsidiary point did not constitute an ascent of the main summit.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Northwest Spur → North Ridge (puncak utama; 1988)

Teknis; bagian es hingga 70° dan bergschrund dekat puncak menurut AAJ

Ekspedisi Juni–Juli 1988; bukan estimasi durasi umum

Andrew Wingfield describes a northwest spur rising approximately 2,100 m to the north ridge at around 6,900 m. Mark Lowe and Keith Milne continued through higher camps to reach the main summit in July 1988. This route achieved the mountain’s second ascent on a different side from the 1971 southern line.

Source

Punggung Selatan/Tenggara dari Gletser Pumari Chhish (rute pendakian pertama 1971)

Sangat berat / ekstrem — 7000-an bersalju, terpapar, dan panjang

Base camp 2 Juli; puncak 26 Agustus 1971 (catatan ekspedisi, bukan estimasi umum)

Andrzej Zawada’s expedition archive documents the line through the southeastern Ice Cake face and south ridge. The team fixed ropes on exposed terrain and established successive camps; four climbers reached the main summit on August 26, 1971. Jan Franczuk died near Camp III. The listed duration is the first-ascent chronology, not a reusable itinerary.

Source

South-West Face — Kunyang Chhish East (pendakian pertama 2013)

Alpin teknis pada dinding campuran sekitar 2.700 m

14–19 Juli 2013; lima malam di dinding pada pendakian pertama

This line reaches the roughly 7,400 m East summit, separate from the main summit. Simon Anthamatten, Hansjörg Auer, and Matthias Auer climbed the southwest face on July 14–19, 2013, after two retreats. They sheltered from a storm at around 6,800 m before reaching the summit on July 18 and descending to the Pumari Chhish Glacier. The duration records that expedition, not a general itinerary estimate.

Source

Climbing Experiences

These sources distinguish the main summit of Kunyang Chhish from its East summit. Andrew Wingfield’s account documents a new line to the main summit in 1988, while Hansjörg Auer’s article and the Piolets d’Or film cover the East summit’s first ascent in 2013. A historical feature adds context on the Polish expedition of 1971 and earlier attempts. Two additional firsthand accounts document Stephen Venables’s north-side attempt and Kazuo Tobita’s team redirecting its 2003 objective to a 6,100 m snow peak. Both show how weather, objective hazards, and supplies can end an attempt on the main summit.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.