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GUNUNG · China (Tibet); dahulu diklaim Bhutan

Kula Kangri

库拉岗日 / ཀུ་ལ་ཁ་རི

Source
Kula Kangri

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
7.538 m
Country
China (Tibet); dahulu diklaim Bhutan (CN)
Location / Range
Himalaya Timur
Mountain type
Puncak bersalju-es Himalaya Timur (ultra; gunung suci)
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
28.2267, 90.6164
Difficulty
Ekspedisi teknis di atas 7.500 m: punggungan es, batu, dan salju; trek kawasan berbeda dari rute puncak.
Best Season
Riwayat ekspedisi: Maret–Mei 1986 dan September–Oktober 2004; laporan ini bukan prakiraan kondisi atau jaminan musim aman.
Permits & Rules
Ekspedisi 1986 memperoleh izin melalui Chinese Mountaineering Association setelah negosiasi panjang; laporan historis tidak menetapkan aturan akses saat ini.
Hazards
Laporan ekspedisi mencatat longsoran, dinding es curam, celah gletser, cornice, angin kuat, dan visibilitas buruk.

Description

Kula Kangri is an Eastern Himalayan peak listed at 7,538 m by Wikidata. Sources differ over its placement on the Tibet–Bhutan border; Wikidata lists both China and Bhutan. The Kobe University expedition reached the main summit by the west ridge in April 1986. An American Alpine Journal chronology also records an Austrian ascent in 1994, contradicting the claim that it was climbed only once. The Central and East summits are separate objectives, climbed by a Japanese–Tibetan team in 2001. Regional trekking videos complement the expedition accounts but do not establish that summit access is currently open.

Routes

Punggungan barat — jalur ekspedisi 1986 (historis)

Ekspedisi teknis es, batu, dan salju
17 Maret–28 April 1986: periode di gunung dalam laporan

From the northern approach, the team gained the west ridge over an ice wall and bypassed a rock barrier to the south. The final camp supported two successful summit days. This is a historical reconstruction, not a modern itinerary.

Route Segments

  1. 1

    ABC → Camp I

    5.700 mdpl
  2. 2

    Camp I → Camp II

    6.200 mdpl
  3. 3

    Camp II → Camp III

    6.800 mdpl
  4. 4

    Camp III → Camp IV

    7.100 mdpl
Source

Variasi punggungan salju bawah — percobaan 2004 (historis)

Ekspedisi teknis; tidak mencapai puncak
September–Oktober 2004

The Nihon University team opened a lower variation to reduce avalanche exposure before joining previously opened terrain above. This attempt did not reach the summit.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Three American Alpine Journal accounts distinguish a main-summit ascent, an unsuccessful attempt, and subsidiary-summit ascents. Three videos provide regional trekking and landscape context. Historical expedition routes do not establish current climbing access or conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Kula Kangri en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Kula Kangri (Q866771) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 Encyclopedia Kula Kangri: laporan ekspedisi 1986 publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Kula Kangri I: percobaan 2004 dan kronologi publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  5. 5 Encyclopedia Kula Kangri Central and East: first ascents publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  6. 6 Encyclopedia The Ascent of Kula Kangri from Tibet himalayanclub.org · EN