GUNUNG · Pakistan (Gilgit-Baltistan)

Kanjut Sar

Kanjut Sar (کنجٹ سر)

Kanjut Sar di latar tengah; Yukshin Gardan Sar di latar kiri, Karakoram. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.760 m
Country: Pakistan (Gilgit-Baltistan) (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan
Mountain type: Puncak non-vulkanik dengan medan batu, salju, dan es
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2050, 75.4183
Difficulty: Ekspedisi teknis di ketinggian 7.760 m; catatan historis mencakup kamp tinggi, tali tetap, dan lintasan batu/es
Best Season: Ekspedisi historis 1959 dan 1981 berlangsung pada musim panas; catatan 1981 juga melaporkan badai dan longsor berkepanjangan pada Juli
Permits & Rules: Catatan ekspedisi historis bukan acuan izin atau tarif saat ini; persyaratan perlu dikonfirmasi sebelum merencanakan perjalanan
Hazards: Longsor salju dapat menghancurkan kamp dan tali tetap; badai, kelelahan, serta radang dingin tercatat dalam laporan ekspedisi 1959 dan 1981

Description

Kanjut Sar (7,760 m) is a Hispar Muztagh peak in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Wikidata identifies it as a mountain at approximately 36.205° N, 75.4183° E. Camillo Pellissier reached its summit with Guido Monzino’s Italian expedition in 1959 from the southern side. A Japanese expedition report documents the west-face ascent in August 1981 after repeated avalanches damaged camps and fixed ropes. The south ridge and west face must be distinguished from the south face, described as unclimbed in a 2007 SummitPost photo caption. These records explain climbing history and serious terrain, rather than establish present route or access conditions.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding barat — ekspedisi Jepang 1981 (historis)

Ekspedisi teknis batu, salju, dan es; bahaya longsor

From the Jutmar–Hispar area, the team reached the west face and opened a rock traverse and exposed ridge toward high camps. Repeated avalanches forced repairs before the summit was reached in August. No modern duration estimate is inferred from this expedition’s schedule.

Source

Punggungan selatan — pendakian pertama 1959 (historis)

Ekspedisi teknis salju dan es; tanpa grade standar dalam sumber

The Italian expedition climbed from the southern side. Pellissier continued up a snow-and-ice couloir to the summit ridge after Bich turned back. This is a historical line, not a claim that the south face was climbed or that the route is currently usable.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Two American Alpine Journal reports and Italian participants’ accounts form the core of this Kanjut Sar collection. Supporting photographs, maps and regional trekking footage are distinguished from summit accounts. Historical experiences highlight avalanches, damaged camps and retreat decisions; they do not establish current conditions or permit rules.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.