GUNUNG · Pakistan (Gilgit-Baltistan)

Kanjut Sar

Kanjut Sar (کنجٹ سر)

Kanjut Sar (7.760 m), Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.760 m
Country: Pakistan (Gilgit-Baltistan) (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan
Mountain type: Puncak es raksasa di Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — salah satu puncak tertinggi di dunia yang berdiri cukup mandiri; sangat jarang didaki
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2050, 75.4183
Difficulty: Ekspedisi 7.000-an sejati (alpine/himalayan berat) — jauh, terpencil, medan glasial dan salju dalam; hanya untuk tim berpengalaman dengan dukungan penuh
Best Season: Musim panas Karakoram (Juni–Agustus), ketika cuaca relatif stabil untuk ekspedisi tinggi
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin pendakian (peak permit) dari otoritas Pakistan/Gilgit-Baltistan; umumnya lewat operator berlisensi. Pendekatan panjang lewat glasier Hispar dari Hispar/Nagar
Hazards: Keterpencilan ekstrem dan evakuasi sulit, celah glasial (crevasse), risiko longsor salju, cuaca ketinggian yang keras, serta akklimatisasi untuk ketinggian di atas 7.700 m

Description

Kanjut Sar (7,760 m) is a towering ice peak in the Hispar Muztagh, part of the Karakoram in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. At 7,760 m it ranks among the world's highest mountains and stands fairly independently above the long Hispar Glacier. Its first ascent was made in 1959 by Camillo Pellissier with an Italian expedition led by Guido Monzino, who reached the summit from the southern side after establishing a chain of high camps and weathering a severe snowstorm. The peak was climbed again only in August 1981 by a Japanese team, and in 2010 a Russian–American expedition attempted the east ridge but turned back around 7,450 m in bad weather. Because of its remote access — requiring a multi-day trek up the Hispar Glacier — and the technical demands of extreme altitude, Kanjut Sar remains a rare objective, appearing more often in expedition records and 'Seven Thousanders' literature than in routine ascents.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Selatan (South Face)

Sangat sulit (dinding es-batu curam)

Ekspedisi (variabel)

The south face of Kanjut Sar is documented as a technical line with photos and a topo on SummitPost. The face is steep and exposed, demanding sustained ice and mixed climbing at extreme altitude.

Source

Sisi Selatan (South side) — rute pendakian pertama Italia 1959

Ekspedisi 7.000-an berat (glasial + salju dalam)

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu (base camp glasier Hispar + kamp tinggi berantai)

The south side is the line of the first ascent of Kanjut Sar, completed by Camillo Pellissier with Guido Monzino's Italian expedition in 1959. The team built a chain of high camps to around 7,000 m, retreated in an early-July storm, then pushed on to the summit. The approach is a long trek up the Hispar Glacier.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Kanjut Sar is too remote for many climbing vlogs, so this set emphasises expedition records, a south-face topo page, the 'Seven Thousanders' archive, and footage of the Hispar Glacier trek that forms the approach into this peak's region. All links were verified live before inclusion.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.