GUNUNG · Nepal

Kangtega

Kangtega / काङ्टेगा / 'The Snow Saddle'

Information

Elevation: 6.782 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal, kawasan Khumbu, Nepal (di antara lembah Khumbu dan Hinku, dekat Namche Bazaar & Machhermo)
Mountain type: Puncak pegunungan (non-vulkanik, batuan & es Himalaya)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.7833, 86.8167
Difficulty: Sangat sulit (6.000-an teknis, es dan tebing curam); jarang didaki, bukan gunung trekking
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Mei) dan musim gugur (Oktober–November)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian dari Department of Tourism Nepal / Nepal Mountaineering Association; pendekatan lewat trek kawasan Everest/Gokyo
Hazards: Dinding es dan serac yang labil, punggung berangin, cuaca Himalaya yang cepat berubah, dan ketinggian di atas 6.000 m

Description

Kangtega (6,782 m), also known as 'The Snow Saddle', is a prominent peak of the Mahalangur Himal in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Seen from the Khumbu and Hinku valleys, its summit curves into a snow-covered saddle shape, which is the source of its nickname. It was first ascended in 1963 and is rarely climbed because of its steep, technical, ice-laden terrain. Even so, its icy walls and dramatic ridgelines make Kangtega one of the most iconic backdrops along the trekking routes toward Everest, Gokyo and the Hinku valley, and it features regularly in the accounts of climbers and guides around Namche Bazaar and Machhermo.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Utara (North Face) — jalur alpine teknis

Ekstrem (dinding es-batu teknis, paparan tinggi)

Beberapa hari mendaki di dinding (gaya alpine), di atas ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

Kangtega's north face is a serious, rarely-attempted alpine objective. An American Alpine Journal report by Valeri Babanov documents a solo attempt to force a new line up this wall, reaching about 6,600 m on the northwest ridge before linking into a line previously climbed by a Japanese team. It demands high-level mixed-ice ability and full commitment — for experienced alpinists only.

Source

Rute pendakian pertama (1963) — sisi barat daya / punggung menuju puncak pelana

Sangat sulit (6.000-an teknis, es curam)

Ekspedisi ±3–4 minggu (termasuk trek pendekatan lewat kawasan Khumbu & aklimatisasi)

Kangtega was first climbed in 1963 by an expedition associated with Edmund Hillary, forcing steep ice terrain to the saddle-shaped summit. This is not a trekking peak: climbers approach via the Everest/Gokyo trails from Namche Bazaar, then set high camps on the icy slopes before the summit push. The main hazards are ice walls and unstable seracs, windy ridges, and altitude above 6,000 m.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Kangtega (6,782 m), 'The Snow Saddle', is a technical, rarely-climbed Khumbu peak that nonetheless forms one of the most iconic backdrops along the Everest and Gokyo trekking routes. The sources below document real experiences around Kangtega — from expedition footage on its icy walls and an alpine account of its North Face, to aerial views of its snow saddle and trail-level views from the Dole–Machhermo stage.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.