GUNUNG · India

Kamet

Information

Elevation: 7.756 m
Country: India (IN)
Location / Range: Zanskar Mountains, Garhwal Himalaya — Chamoli District, Uttarakhand, India (near the Tibet/China border)
Mountain type: Non-volcanic peak in the Zanskar Range, Garhwal Himalaya — metamorphic and granite rock at extreme altitude
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 30.9186, 79.5911
Difficulty: A high-altitude technical mountaineering expedition; requires gradual acclimatization, ice-snow skills, and high-camp support
Best Season: May–June (pre-monsoon) or September–October (post-monsoon)
Permits & Rules: Expedition permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) required; a summit royalty applies; generally requires a liaison officer, porters, and a support team
Hazards: Zone 3 altitude (above 7,000 m), glacier crevasses, risk of ice and snow avalanches, extreme temperatures, remote access, the unpredictable Himalayan weather

Description

Kamet (7,756 m) is the third-highest mountain in India and the 29th highest peak in the world, rising in Chamoli District, Uttarakhand, within the Garhwal Himalaya. Part of the Zanskar Range, Kamet sits near the de facto border between India and Tibet (China). The first ascent was achieved on 21 June 1931 by Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, Raymond Greene, R.L. Holdsworth, Bill Birnie, and Lewa Sherpa — at the time setting a world altitude record for the highest peak ever climbed (a record held until Everest was summited in 1953). The standard route passes via Meade's Col (~7,138 m), a saddle between Kamet and its neighbour Abi Gamin. The ascent demands staged acclimatisation, technical snow and ice skills, and an official expedition permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). Kamet is notably quieter and more remote than many popular Himalayan peaks, making it an attractive objective for experienced expedition climbers seeking an authentic Himalayan experience away from crowds.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Col Meade — Northeast Ridge (Rute Normal)

Teknis es-salju ketinggian tinggi (PD+ hingga AD; zona kematian di atas 7.000 m)

Ekspedisi ~4–6 minggu (termasuk pendekatan, aklimatisasi bertahap, dan dorongan puncak)

Rute standar yang dirintis ekspedisi Frank Smythe tahun 1931. Pendaki mendaki dari Base Camp (sekitar 5.000–5.500 m) melewati gletser timur, memasang serangkaian high camp bertahap menuju Col Meade (~7.138 m) — sadel antara Kamet dan Abi Gamin. Dari col, rute berbelok ke barat daya menyusuri Northeast Ridge yang curam berbalut es-salju menuju puncak. Membutuhkan penguasaan crampons, ice axe, dan pengalaman berkemah dalam kondisi ketinggian ekstrem.

Northwest Ridge

Sangat teknis / tuntutan tinggi

Ekspedisi ~5–7 minggu

Rute lebih baru yang mendekati Kamet dari punggung barat laut — didokumentasikan dalam publikasi American Alpine Club sebagai jalur non-standar yang menuntut kemampuan es-batu tingkat lanjut. Cocok untuk tim ekspedisi berpengalaman yang menginginkan tantangan berbeda di luar jalur normal Col Meade.

Rute Standar — Glasier Raikana & Col Meade (Normal Route)

PD+ hingga AD (Alpine Demanding; teknis moderat untuk kelas 7.000-an, namun memerlukan pengalaman di glasier tinggi dan medan salju-es)

Ekspedisi ±3–4 minggu total (termasuk pendekatan dari Joshimath, aklimatisasi, dan upaya puncak)

The standard Kamet route begins with an approach from Joshimath (1,875 m) through Niti (3,600 m) to base camp on the Raikana Glacier (c.5,300 m). From base camp, expeditions establish Camp I (~5,800 m) and Camp II (~6,200 m) on the glacier ridge before reaching Meade's Col (~6,600 m) — the saddle linking the west flank to the summit zone. From Meade's Col, the route climbs the long west ridge, generally not overly technical, with a traverse below seracs before the summit (7,756 m). The entire route crosses open glacier terrain requiring crampons, ice axes, and rope teams. There are no permanent fixed ropes; each expedition brings its own equipment. Careful staged acclimatization is critical given the remoteness and distance from emergency medical aid.

Source

West Ridge

Sangat teknis / tuntutan tinggi (D–TD; tebing batu dan es di ketinggian ekstrem)

Ekspedisi ~5–7 minggu (akses lebih sulit, teknis lebih tinggi)

Rute alternatif teknis yang pertama kali didaki pada 1984 oleh tim gabungan Indo-Perancis (dipimpin Kol. B.S. Sandhu). Mendaki sisi barat Kamet yang lebih curam dan berbatu dibanding rute normal — dianggap salah satu jalur paling menantang di gunung ini dan belum banyak diulangi setelah pendakian pertamanya.

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Kamet is a full Himalayan mountaineering expedition — weeks of staged acclimatisation at remote high camps, navigation across crevassed glaciers, and ultimately pushing into the death zone above 7,000 m. Films and expedition accounts describe unpredictable weather, steep ice and snow terrain above Meade's Col, and the remarkable quietness of a mountain far less crowded than the 8,000 m giants.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.