GUNUNG · Swiss
Jungfrau
Jungfrau / La Jeune Vierge
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 4.158 m
- Country
- Swiss (CH)
- Location / Range
- Bernese Alps — Central Western Alps
- Mountain type
- High-altitude granite/gneiss peak (non-volcanic), part of the iconic Eiger–Mönch–Jungfrau trio
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 46.5367, 7.9625
- Difficulty
- Very hard and technical (alpine hochtour PD–AD): the Jungfraufirn glacier climb, 30–50° snow/ice slopes, and highly exposed rock ridges; absolutely requires crampons, ice axe, harness, rope, and glacier travel experience
- Best Season
- Mid-June–September (most stable glacier and weather conditions); July–August is the busiest
- Permits & Rules
- No formal climbing permit; reservation mandatory at the Mönchsjochhütte (3,657 m, the normal departure point) via the SAC Swiss Alpine Club; the Jungfraubahn railway (Grindelwald/Lauterbrunnen → Jungfraujoch) is the most common access
- Hazards
- Hidden glacier crevasses, avalanches, extreme wind exposure at the summit, sudden weather changes, altitude above 4,000 m (altitude sickness for unacclimatized climbers), route congestion in peak season
Description
The Jungfrau (4,158 m) is the third-highest peak in the Bernese Alps and one of the world's most recognisable Swiss icons, rising above the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald alongside its neighbours, the Eiger (3,967 m) and Mönch (4,107 m). Its German name means 'Virgin'—evoking the graceful, perpetually snow-clad shape of the summit. The Jungfrau-Aletsch area, including this peak, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001, encompassing the longest glacier in the Alps, the Aletsch (about 23 km). The first recorded ascent was on 3 August 1811 by brothers Rudolf and Hieronymus Meyer from Aarau, accompanied by two local chamois hunters, via the Rottalsattel. Today the normal route begins from Jungfraujoch (3,454 m)—Europe's highest railway station, reachable by the Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald—then climbs to Mönchsjochhütte and continues to the summit over glaciers and snow/rock ridges. Climbing the Jungfrau is not a simple trek but a full alpine undertaking requiring glacier experience, crampons, ice axe, and ideally an IFMGA-certified mountain guide.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Jalur Normal via Mönchjochhütte (dari Jungfraujoch)
PD+ hingga AD (Peu Difficile plus hingga Assez Difficile): gletser landai lalu lereng es/salju hingga ~45° di seksi puncak; wajib crampon, kapak es, harness, taliJungfrau's normal route starts at Jungfraujoch (3,454 m), reached by Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald (via Kleine Scheidegg) or Lauterbrunnen. From Jungfraujoch, the approach to Mönchsjochhütte (3,657 m) crosses the Jungfraufirn glacier — approximately 1.5–2 hours on crampons over gently sloping ice. From the hut, the route climbs increasingly steep snow/ice slopes and an exposed rock ridge to the summit (4,158 m). Mönchsjochhütte is the only hut on this route; reservations are strongly advised for those wishing to overnight and begin the summit push before dawn (typically 03:00–04:00 to avoid afternoon snow softening). An IFMGA-certified guide is strongly recommended for climbers without prior alpine glacier experience.
Route Segments
- 1
Jungfraujoch (3454 m) → Mönchjochhütte (3657 m)
Berjalan di atas Gletser Jungfraufirn yang landai; crampon wajib; orientasi via pita jalur; pemandangan menuju puncak Jungfrau dan Mönch
- 2
Mönchjochhütte → Lereng Tengah (~3900 m)
Lereng salju/es yang semakin curam; seksi paling melelahkan secara fisik; perlu kapak es dan teknik crampon
- 3
Lereng Tengah → Puncak Jungfrau (4158 m)
Punggungan batu bereksposur tinggi; angin puncak bisa sangat kencang; pemandangan 360° ke Gletser Aletsch, Eiger, Mönch, dan Alpen Swiss-Italia
Jalur Normal via Rottalsattel (dari Jungfraujoch–Mönchsjochhütte)
PD (Peu Difficile); salju/es hingga 40–50° di Rottalsattel; crampons, harness & ice axe wajibThe normal route on the Jungfrau begins at Jungfraujoch (3,454 m), reachable by Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen. From Jungfraujoch, climbers walk ~1.5 hours to the Mönchsjochhütte (3,657 m) across the Jungfraufirn glacier for an overnight stay. The following morning (typically a 03:00–05:00 start), teams cross the Jungfraufirn southwestwards to the Rottalsattel (3,886 m) — the col between the Jungfrau and Rottalhorn, the most technical section of the route at slopes up to 40–50° of snow and ice. From the Rottalsattel, the route turns onto the narrow southeast ridge, climbing rock and snow to the summit plateau and finally the top (4,158 m). Summit views encompass the Grosser Aletschgletscher (longest in the Alps), the Eiger, Mönch, and on clear days as far as Mont Blanc in France. A UIAGM/IFMGA certified guide is strongly recommended.
Route Segments
- 1
Jungfraujoch (3.454 m) → Mönchsjochhütte (3.657 m)
Perjalanan di atas gletser Jungfraufirn; crampons dipasang sejak sini; menginap semalam di hütte tertinggi Alpen untuk aklimatisasi dan start pagi buta
- 2
Mönchsjochhütte → Rottalsattel (3.886 m)
Penyeberangan gletser Jungfraufirn ke arah barat daya; crevasse di bagian awal; kemiringan meningkat menuju Rottalsattel; seksi paling teknis — salju/es hingga 50°
- 3
Rottalsattel → Punggungan Tenggara → Puncak (4.158 m)
Punggungan sempit dengan eksposur di kedua sisi; campuran batuan dan salju; summit kecil dengan pemandangan tak terhalang ke Aletschgletscher dan seluruh Alpen Bernese
Jalur Normal via Rottalsattel — dari Jungfraujoch
PD+ / D (Peu Difficile plus; menuntut kecakapan alpine penuh: tali, crampon, navigasi gletser)The most common route to the Jungfrau summit, starting from Jungfraujoch station (3,454 m) reachable by Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen. From Jungfraujoch, walk westward across the Jungfraufirn glacier plateau to the Mönchsjochhütte (3,650 m, ~1–1.5 hours) for an overnight stay. The next morning, climb south to the Rottalsattel (3,893 m) over steep snow/firn slopes, sometimes mixed rock depending on the season; from this col the SE ridge leads to the summit (4,158 m). Glacier traversal demands roping up and crevasse navigation; the Rottalsattel headwall involves steep firn (45°–50°) requiring crampons and ice axe. A certified UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide is strongly recommended for those without Alpine 4,000-metre experience.
Route Segments
- 1
Stasiun Jungfraujoch (3454 m) → Mönchsjochhütte (3650 m)
Traversal plateau gletser Jungfraufirn ke barat; wajib bertali karena crevasse tersembunyi; pemandangan ke Mönch dan Eiger
- 2
Mönchsjochhütte (3650 m) → Rottalsattel (3893 m)
Pendakian firn/salju/es curam menuju saddle; titik teknis utama rute; crampon & ice axe wajib; eksposur angin meningkat
- 3
Rottalsattel (3893 m) → Puncak Jungfrau (4158 m)
Punggungan SE menuju puncak; beberapa bagian berupa batuan; pemandangan ke Gletser Aletsch dan seluruh Bernese Oberland
Climbing Experiences
The Jungfrau (4,158 m) is one of the most climbed 4,000-metre peaks of the Bernese Alps — not because it is easy, but because the Jungfrau Railway carries climbers up to the Jungfraujoch (3,454 m), removing the thousands of metres of approach normally needed to reach an alpine start. From there, the normal route via the Mönchsjochhütte and the Rottalsattel offers an 'accessible' yet still serious alpine climb: the crevassed Jungfraufirn glacier, an exposed southeast ridge, and unpredictable Alpine weather. For those not aiming for the summit, the Jungfrau region offers dozens of spectacular trekking trails from Kleine Scheidegg to Männlichen — all with direct views of the great Eiger–Mönch–Jungfrau triangle, part of the Jungfrau–Aletsch UNESCO World Heritage Site.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.