GUNUNG · Italia

Jôf di Montasio

Jôf di Montasio (Slovenia: Montaž; Jerman: Montasch)

Information

Elevation: 2.754 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Alpen Julian, Friuli-Venezia Giulia — dekat Sella Nevea, Provinsi Udine
Mountain type: Puncak batu gamping (Dolomit Selatan) — puncak tertinggi kedua Alpen Julian
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4378, 13.4333
Difficulty: Menuntut (EE) di Via Normale dengan bagian terekspos & tangga besi Pipan; via ferrata Ceria-Merlone jauh lebih berat
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September, saat sisa salju di couloir sudah mencair dan cuaca paling stabil
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada permit; menginap/istirahat di Rifugio Giacomo di Brazzà (±1.660 m) umum; perlengkapan via ferrata wajib bila memakai jalur ber-tangga/kabel
Hazards: Bagian punggung & couloir yang terekspos, batu lepas dan jatuhan batu, sisa salju keras awal musim di Findenegg Couloir, serta perubahan cuaca cepat khas Alpen Julian

Description

Jôf di Montasio (2,754 m) is the second-highest peak of the Julian Alps after Triglav, rising in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, north-eastern Italy, above the Sella Nevea resort. Its limestone massif stretches roughly 20 km east–west and once formed the historic boundary between the Duchy of Carinthia and Venetian territories; four languages (Italian, Friulian, Slovene, German) are spoken in the surrounding valleys. The summit was first climbed on 18 August 1877 by Hermann Findenegg and Antonio Brussoferro. The normal route approaches from the south past the Rifugio Giacomo di Brazzà, then takes either the steel 'Pipan Ladder' (via-ferrata gear required) or the Findenegg Couloir up to the Suringar bivouac (~2,400 m) before the exposed final ridge to the top. The north-east face is laced with hard rock and via-ferrata routes, including the celebrated Ceria-Merlone. The Montasio name also belongs to a well-known Italian cheese produced in this region.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Traversata Amalia–Leva–Ceria-Merlone (traverse via ferrata)

Via ferrata / sentiero attrezzato, terekspos, alpin

Traverse sehari penuh (panjang)

A high-level combination that climbs Jôf di Montasio by the Via Ferrata Amalia and descends/traverses via the Leva and Ceria-Merlone equipped paths. The Ceria-Merlone (inaugurated 1971, dedicated to alpinists Ceria and Merlone) runs constantly above ~2,000 m for about 3 km along the SE ridge, over thin pinnacles, wind gaps and dramatic ledges from Cima di Terrarossa toward Punta Plagnis.

Source

Via Ferrata Amalia (pendakian dinding utara)

Sulit (ferrate365 'Difficult', ±C)

Pendekatan ±1:30, ruas ferrata ±2:30 (perjalanan sehari penuh)

A long, varied and demanding equipped route climbing the north face of Jôf di Montasio, with vertical rock, chimneys and very exposed cabled passages. Beyond the ferrata proper it continues over the narrow, airy 'Draghi' ridge and alpine terrain requiring mountain experience and endurance; often done as a multi-day or combined outing.

Source

Via Normale dari Altopiano del Montasio (lewat Scala Pipan)

EEA (pendaki berpengalaman berperlengkapan — helm + set via ferrata dianjurkan)

±4 jam menuju puncak (sekali jalan)

From the parking near Rifugio di Brazzà the path crosses the meadows NW to the Forca dei Disteis, then traverses scree to the base of the 450 m south wall. Cable-equipped rock steps and steep grassy gullies lead to a hanging scree field and the Scala Pipan (a partly vertical, partly leaning ladder reached by a vertical ferrata stretch). Above the ladder the route gains the SE ridge and follows the crest — mostly on the south side, with one slightly exposed passage on the north — to the top.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Jôf di Montasio (2,754 m), the 'King of the Julian Alps' and the range's second-highest peak after Triglav, above the Altopiano del Montasio in Italy. The sources below document real ascents — chiefly the Via Normale via the steel 'Scala Pipan' from Rifugio di Brazzà, plus the Findenegg-couloir variant and a community report — showing the exposed cabled sections, the steep south wall, and the summit panorama.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.