GUNUNG · Nepal

Jannu (Kumbhakarna)

कुम्भकर्ण हिमाल (Kumbhakarna / Jannu)

Information

Elevation: 7.711 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Kangchenjunga Himal, Himalaya (outlier barat Kangchenjunga)
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.6667, 88.0333
Difficulty: Sangat teknis (ED+) — Dinding Utara termasuk tembok ketinggian tinggi tersulit di dunia
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Mei) & musim gugur (September–November)
Permits & Rules: Permit pendakian pemerintah Nepal + biaya Kawasan Konservasi Kangchenjunga (KCAP)
Hazards: Dinding granit-es nyaris vertikal, serac & longsoran, paparan ketinggian ekstrem >7.000 m, cuaca tak menentu

Description

Jannu, also known as Kumbhakarna (कुम्भकर्ण), is a 7,711-metre peak in the Kangchenjunga Himal of eastern Nepal and the 32nd-highest mountain in the world. It is a prominent western outlier of Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest peak, yet stands as a steep, massive mountain in its own right with numerous extremely demanding climbing routes. Jannu's North Face — immortalised in the film 'The Wall of Shadows' — is regarded as one of the hardest high-altitude walls in modern alpinism: the first direct line was completed by a Russian expedition in 2004, and in October 2023 the American trio Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau opened the 'Round Trip Ticket' route (M7 AI5+ A0) in pure alpine style, winning the 2024 Piolet d'Or. Jannu was first climbed via the Southeast Ridge by a French expedition led by Lionel Terray in 1962, while the subsidiary east summit, Jannu East, was long known as one of the last unclimbed Himalayan peaks before it was finally climbed in 2025.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Utara (North Face) — Russian Direct (2004) & 'Round Trip Ticket' (2023)

ED+ — 'Round Trip Ticket' M7 AI5+ A0, panjang jalur ~2.700 m

~7 hari naik-turun untuk 'Round Trip Ticket' (alpine style, 7–13 Oktober 2023)

Jannu's North Face is one of the hardest walls in modern alpinism. The first direct line was completed by a 12-member Russian team in 2004 using thousands of metres of fixed rope. In October 2023, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau opened the 'Round Trip Ticket' route in pure alpine style (M7 AI5+ A0), winning the 2024 Piolet d'Or. The route is only feasible for elite alpinists and is NOT suitable for commercial expeditions.

Source

Punggungan Tenggara (Southeast Ridge) — jalur pendakian pertama 1962

Sangat sulit secara teknis — bukan jalur untuk pendaki pemula

Ekspedisi beberapa minggu dari base camp (gaya berekspedisi penuh)

Jannu's first-ascent route, pioneered by the French expedition led by Lionel Terray in April 1962. It starts from the Yamatari Glacier on the south side, crosses a hanging plateau nicknamed 'The Throne', and climbs the southeast ridge to the 7,711 m summit. Even as the 'normal' line, Jannu remains a steep and technical mountain far removed from ordinary commercial climbing.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Jannu / Kumbhakarna (7,711 m) is a world-class alpinism objective, not a peak for ordinary commercial climbers. Its reputation rests on the North Face — one of the hardest high-altitude walls ever climbed. The sources below document real milestones in its climbing history: the Russian direct line on the North Face (2004), the story of its east summit (Jannu East), the documentary film 'The Wall of Shadows', a narrative of tragedy on the mountain, and the 2023 American 'Round Trip Ticket' new route that won a Piolet d'Or. All links have been verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.