GUNUNG · Tajikistan

Ismoil Somoni Peak

Қуллаи Исмоили Сомонӣ

Information

Elevation: 7.495 m
Country: Tajikistan (TJ)
Location / Range: Academy of Sciences Range, Pamir
Mountain type: Non-volcanic mountain
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 38.9427, 72.0153
Difficulty: A high-altitude expedition requiring technical skills on glaciers, ice and rock.
Best Season: June–August according to SummitPost; conditions vary by season.
Permits & Rules: In the 2023 expedition account, permits and helicopter flights were arranged through the base-camp logistics package. This is not a statement of current permit rules.
Hazards: Altitude illness, serac falls, glacier crevasses, exposed ice slopes, storms and variable fixed-rope condition.

Description

Ismoil Somoni (7,495 m) is Tajikistan’s highest mountain, in the Academy of Sciences Range of the Pamirs. Formerly Stalin Peak and later Communism Peak, it was first climbed by Yevgeniy Abalakov in 1933. The normal route from Moskvina follows the Borodkin Spur, descends onto the Pamir Firn Plateau and continues through the Pik Dushanbe area to the summit. Helicopter access to base camp is common, but overland approaches are also documented. Expedition accounts describe rock and ice terrain, extensive acclimatization, and weather and altitude hazards.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Borodkin Spur — rute normal dari Moskvina

Mountaineering teknis / technical mountaineering

From Moskvina, the route crosses a serac-exposed ramp to the Borodkin Spur, descends onto the Pamir Firn Plateau, then climbs to Pik Dushanbe camp and the summit ridge. The return requires climbing back over the spur. Camp and fixed-rope conditions vary; this description refers to the 2023 expedition.

Source

Czech Route — north face (arsip AAJ 1991)

Twight’s account describes steep north-face ice climbing to the plateau, followed by the summit and descent via Borodkin. This is a historical technical route, not the normal ascent or a description of current conditions.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Modern and historical accounts describe acclimatization, expedition loads and weather decisions on Ismoil Somoni. The Borodkin Spur entails descending onto the plateau and climbing back over it on the return. These expedition archives document conditions at the time, rather than guaranteeing present route conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.