GUNUNG · Ekuador

Illinizas

Illinizas (Iliniza Norte / Iliniza Sur)

Information

Elevation: 5.248 m
Country: Ekuador (EC)
Location / Range: Cordillera Occidental, Andes Ekuador (Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas)
Mountain type: Gunung berapi kembar (Iliniza Sur 5.248 m berselimut es; Iliniza Norte 5.126 m puncak scramble)
Volcanic?: Yes — volcano
Coordinates: -0.6594, -78.7136
Difficulty: Iliniza Norte: berat (scramble ketinggian); Iliniza Sur: sangat berat (alpine glasial teknis)
Best Season: Juni–September & Desember–Januari (jendela lebih kering di Andes ekuator)
Permits & Rules: Berada di Reserva Ecológica Los Ilinizas. Pendekatan lewat desa El Chaupi ke La Virgen, lalu refugio Nuevos Horizontes di antara kedua puncak. Iliniza Sur wajib pemandu bersertifikat karena medan glasial.
Hazards: Ketinggian di atas 5.000 m (perlu aklimatisasi), jalur puncak Norte yang membingungkan dan terekspos dengan bebatuan lepas, sedangkan Sur menyuguhkan es curam, crevasse, dan cuaca yang cepat berubah dengan angin dan salju.

Description

Iliniza (the Illinizas) is a pair of twin volcanoes in Ecuador's Cordillera Occidental, inside the Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve about 55 km south of Quito. The two are separated by a saddle roughly 1 km long: the higher, glacier-clad Iliniza Sur (~5,248 m), which is a technical alpine climb, and Iliniza Norte (~5,126 m), which can be done as a demanding, glacier-free scramble. Because of its altitude, Iliniza Norte is very popular as an acclimatization peak before tackling higher summits such as Cotopaxi or Chimborazo. The usual start is the village of El Chaupi, continuing to La Virgen and the rustic Nuevos Horizontes refuge between the two peaks. Iliniza Sur was first climbed in 1880 by the Italian guides Jean-Antoine and Louis Carrel (after Edward Whymper failed twice), while Iliniza Norte was first reached by the Ecuadorians Nicolás Martínez and Alejandro Villavicencio in 1912.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Iliniza Norte — jalur normal (El Chaupi → La Virgen → refugio)

Berat; scramble ketinggian kelas 2–3, terekspos di dekat puncak

2 hari (pendekatan + bermalam di refugio, lalu hari puncak) atau 1 hari panjang

The glacier-free route up Iliniza Norte (~5,126 m), popular as an acclimatization climb before Cotopaxi or Chimborazo. From El Chaupi to La Virgen, then ~3 hours to the rustic Nuevos Horizontes refuge on the saddle between the peaks; summit day is a loose rocky scramble that becomes more exposed and harder to navigate near the top, so a guide is still advised. Inside the Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve.

Source

Iliniza Sur — jalur normal glasial

Sangat berat; alpine glasial teknis (es curam, crevasse), wajib pemandu bersertifikat

2 hari (refugio + hari puncak dini hari)

The technical route up Iliniza Sur (~5,248 m), the higher, glacier-clad twin. From the Nuevos Horizontes refuge, summit day crosses glacier and steep ice demanding rope, crampons and ice axe. Conditions can change quickly with wind and snow; Edward Whymper failed twice before the Italian guide Carrel made the first ascent in 1880. Suitable only for experienced alpine climbers.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Iliniza (the Illinizas) in the Ecuadorian Andes is climbed from El Chaupi via La Virgen and the Nuevos Horizontes refuge: Iliniza Norte (~5,126 m) as a popular acclimatization scramble peak, and Iliniza Sur (~5,248 m) as a technical glacial alpine climb. The experiences below cover ascents of both Norte and Sur in varied weather.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.