GUNUNG · Peru

Huandoy

Nevado Huandoy

Information

Elevation: 6.395 m
Country: Peru (PE)
Location / Range: Cordillera Blanca
Mountain type: Gunung
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -9.0286, -77.6656
Difficulty: Sangat berat (alpine teknis, es & medan campuran)
Best Season: Mei–Agustus (musim kering Andes)

Description

Huandoy (also called Tullparaju) is a snow-capped massif inside Huascarán National Park in Ancash, Peru, and the second-tallest peak of the Cordillera Blanca after Huascarán. The two stand close together, separated only by the Llanganuco valley and its lakes (3,846 m). Huandoy has four summits arranged like a fireplace—Huandoy North (6,395 m, the highest), West (6,356 m), South (6,160 m), and East (6,000 m)—all exceeding 6,000 m. The first recorded ascent was on 12 September 1932 by Erwin Schneider and Erwin Hein on a joint German–Austrian expedition. Its ice walls and mixed terrain make Huandoy one of the more demanding alpine objectives in the Peruvian Andes.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Huandoy Norte via Dinding Barat Laut (NW Face)

D+/TD (es 55–65°)

Beberapa hari (ekspedisi alpine)

Jalur menuju puncak utama Huandoy Norte (6.395 m) lewat dinding barat laut berselimut es; menyeberangi bergschrund lalu mendaki dinding es sekitar 200 m pada kemiringan 60–65° sebelum mencapai puncak.

Huandoy Norte — Dinding Timur, 'BOYS 1970'

ED+ WI6 M6 (1.200 m)

Multi-hari (ekspedisi)

Rute modern ekstrem sepanjang 1.200 m di dinding timur Huandoy Norte yang dirintis Marek Holeček–Radoslav Groh, memadukan es sangat curam (WI6) dan medan campuran (M6).

Pendekatan via Base Camp Pisco / Lembah Llanganuco

Trekking pendekatan (menuju rute teknis)

Pendekatan ~1 hari ke base camp

Jalur pendekatan paling umum dan termurah ke massif Huandoy dari timur, lewat kendaraan umum (collectivo) menuju base camp Pisco di Lembah Llanganuco—titik awal menuju dinding-dinding es Huandoy.

Climbing Experiences

Huandoy (main summit 6,395 m), a four-summit massif in the Cordillera Blanca separated from Huascarán by the Llanganuco valley. A technical alpine objective with steep ice walls and mixed terrain; climbers highlight the Pisco/Llanganuco base-camp approach, its four summits all above 6,000 m, and the high risk—including an accident on Huandoy Sur and modern extreme routes on the north peak's east face.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.