GUNUNG · Italia / Austria

Hochfeiler

Hochfeiler / Gran Pilastro

Information

Elevation: 3.510 m
Country: Italia / Austria (IT)
Location / Range: Alpen Zillertal (Zillertaler Alpen), Alpen Timur — perbatasan Italia–Austria
Mountain type: Puncak tertinggi Pegunungan Zillertal, berglasier, di perbatasan Tirol Selatan (Italia) dan Tirol (Austria)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.9725, 11.7277
Difficulty: Hochtour (pendakian bersalju/es) tingkat sedang — rute selatan biasanya bebas salju di musim panas dan bisa jadi jalur setapak curam, sedangkan sisi utara Austria berglasier sepanjang tahun dan menuntut peralatan glasier
Best Season: Pertengahan Juli hingga September, saat rute selatan dari Italia paling bebas salju
Permits & Rules: Tidak perlu izin khusus. Basis pendakian umum adalah Hochfeilerhütte (2.710 m); pendekatan dari lembah Pfitsch/Pfitschtal (Italia) atau Zamser Grund (Austria)
Hazards: Retakan gletser (crevasse) di sisi utara, sisa salju keras, batu jatuh di jalur atas, dan perubahan cuaca mendadak di ketinggian; sisi utara menuntut tali, crampon, dan pengetahuan glasier

Description

The Hochfeiler (3,510 m), called Gran Pilastro in Italian, is the highest peak of the Zillertal Alps and stands on the border between South Tyrol (Italy) and Tyrol (Austria). It was first climbed on 24 July 1865 by Paul Grohmann with guides Georg Samer and Peter Fuchs. The normal route ascends from the Italian side via the Hochfeilerhütte (2,710 m); this southern line is usually snow-free in summer, making for a relatively easy high tour with a rocky final ridge. By contrast, the northern Austrian side remains glaciated year-round and is far more demanding, requiring glacier equipment and awareness of crevasses. From the summit there are wide views over the Zillertal chain, the distant Dolomites, and the green Pfitsch valley below. Its altitude and glacier make the Hochfeiler one of the classic high-tour objectives of the Eastern Alps.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute normal selatan via Hochfeilerhütte (Pfitschtal)

Hochtour sedang — jalur selatan umumnya bebas salju di musim panas dengan punggungan batu akhir

2 hari (naik ±3–4 jam dari Hochfeilerhütte)

The normal route from the Italian side: approach from the Pfitsch valley to the Hochfeilerhütte (2,710 m) for an overnight, then climb the southern line — usually snow-free in summer — to the rocky final ridge and the 3,510 m summit. Relatively easy as a high tour, but still demands fitness and weather awareness at altitude.

Source

Sisi utara berglasier (Austria, Zamser Grund)

Hochtour menuntut — glasier sepanjang tahun, perlu tali/crampon dan pengetahuan glasier

2 hari

An approach from the Austrian side (Zamser Grund) crosses year-round glaciated terrain, far more demanding than the southern route. It requires glacier equipment, rope technique and crevasse awareness; better suited to experienced high-tour mountaineers.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Accounts of climbing the Hochfeiler (3,510 m), the highest peak of the Zillertal Alps, usually start from the Pfitsch valley on the Italian side via the Hochfeilerhütte, the southern route being generally snow-free in summer. Videos show the valley approach, the mountain hut, the rocky final ridge to the summit, the glaciated Austrian north side, and even a hike-and-fly paragliding descent from the top. Some also stress the danger of sudden weather changes at altitude.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.