GUNUNG · Nepal

Himalchuli

Himalchuli / Himal Chuli (हिमालचुली)

Information

Elevation: 7.893 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mansiri Himal (kelompok Manaslu), Himalaya Nepal — Distrik Gorkha
Mountain type: Puncak es-batuan Himalaya (non-vulkanik); puncak tertinggi kedua di Mansiri Himal setelah Manaslu
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.4361, 84.6394
Difficulty: Sangat sulit (ekspedisi alpinisme kelas atas) — jarang didaki, medan bertingkat es curam dan punggung panjang; bukan puncak komersial
Best Season: Musim gugur (September–November) dan musim semi (April–Mei) — pra/pasca-monsun
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin pendakian ekspedisi dari pemerintah Nepal (Departemen Pariwisata) plus operator berlisensi, petugas penghubung, dan porter; kawasan Manaslu juga memerlukan izin masuk kawasan terbatas
Hazards: Longsoran salju dan medan es curam; celah gletser; penyakit ketinggian ekstrem di atas 7.000 m; cuaca Himalaya yang cepat berubah; keterpencilan dan evakuasi sulit

Description

Himalchuli (7,893 m; sometimes written "Himal Chuli") is the 18th-highest mountain on Earth and the second-highest peak of the Mansiri Himal (Manaslu group) in the Nepalese Himalaya, Gorkha District — just south of its more famous neighbour Manaslu (8,163 m). The massif has three main summits: East (the 7,893 m main peak), West (~7,540 m) and North (~7,371 m). Despite its great height and prominence, Himalchuli is rarely climbed: its summit was first reached by a Japanese expedition in 1960, and only a handful of ascents have succeeded since because of long, dangerous, avalanche-prone routes. For trekkers, Himalchuli is most often experienced as a dramatic backdrop on the Manaslu Circuit — the popular trek that loops around the Manaslu massif and opens views of Himalchuli and the other Mansiri Himal peaks. As a non-volcanic mountain, Himalchuli is built of Himalayan rock uplifted by the India-Eurasia plate collision.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Timur Laut / Punggung Timur

Teknis; belum terdaki saat upaya 1978

Ekspedisi bergaya kamp tetap, beberapa minggu

An approach from the northeast toward the East Ridge attempted by a British-led expedition in 1978; the face was reached to about Camp III before withdrawal. The northeast side was only fully climbed by a Ukrainian team in 2007.

Source

Punggung Barat Daya (jalur pendakian pertama / rute utama)

Alpinisme ketinggian serius (>7.000 m), banyak gletser

Ekspedisi bergaya kamp tetap, ~6–8 minggu

The line of the 1960 Japanese first ascent and the 1984 American ascent, gaining the peak from the southwest via a broad snow col between the main and west summits. It remains the route by which nearly all of Himalchuli's very few ascents were made.

Source

Climbing Experiences

The summit of Himalchuli (7,893 m) is climbed only very rarely, so real experiences fall into two kinds: historic expedition reports on the peak and Manaslu Circuit treks that open views of Himalchuli and the Mansiri Himal massif. The sources below document verified, live real-world experiences on the mountain and in its region.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.