GUNUNG · Tiongkok

Haba Snow Mountain

哈巴雪山 (Hābā Xuěshān, zh)

Lereng salju Haba Snow Mountain (5.396 m), Yunnan — bagian atas rute normal yang harus dilalui dengan crampon.. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 5.396 m
Country: Tiongkok (CN)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Shaluli / Hengduan, Shangri-La, Yunnan — kawasan Warisan Dunia UNESCO Three Parallel Rivers
Mountain type: Puncak bersalju abadi bergletser di ujung selatan Pegunungan Shaluli (sistem Hengduan), non-vulkanik
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.3183, 100.1000
Difficulty: Menengah–berat (5.396 m dpl; secara teknis tidak sulit, tetapi menuntut aklimatisasi dan pemakaian crampon serta tali pada 500 m terakhir di gletser)
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Juni) dan musim gugur–awal dingin (Oktober–Desember); hindari musim hujan Yunnan (Juli–September) yang membuat jalur licin dan pandangan tertutup
Permits & Rules: Pendakian dikelola operator lokal di Desa Haba; lazimnya wajib memakai pemandu bersertifikat, membayar tiket kawasan, dan menyewa perlengkapan gletser di desa
Hazards: Ketinggian ekstrem (risiko AMS/HAPE karena kenaikan cepat dari 2.700 m ke 5.396 m), 'Lereng Keputusasaan' (绝望坡) yang panjang dan curam di 5.100–5.300 m, salju keras & retakan gletser di bagian atas, cuaca berubah cepat, batu lepas di bawah garis salju

Description

Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山, 5,396 m) is a glaciated peak in Shangri-La, Yunnan, China, standing directly across the legendary Tiger Leaping Gorge from Yulong Xueshan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain). Its massif forms the southernmost extent of the Shaluli Mountains within the Hengduan system, and the whole area lies inside the UNESCO 'Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan' World Heritage Site. The summit rises roughly 3,500 m above the Yangtze at the bottom of the gorge, giving it one of the most dramatic vertical settings in southwest China. The first recorded ascent was made by a Chinese expedition in 1995. Today Haba is popular as an entry-level snow mountain — many climbers make it their first 5,000er because the normal route needs no technical climbing, though crampons, an ice axe and a rope are still required for the final 500 m on the glacier. The route leaves Haba village (±2,700 m), climbs through Yunnan forest and meadows to a base camp around 4,100 m, then follows a rocky trail to the snowline before tackling the 'Slope of Despair' (绝望坡) at 5,100–5,300 m — a long snow ramp that is the real crux. Because the altitude gain is fast, acclimatisation (for example a day hike to Black Lake from base camp) is strongly recommended.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Desa Haba → Base Camp 4.100 m → 绝望坡 → Puncak

Menengah–berat; tanpa panjatan teknis, tetapi 500 m terakhir di gletser wajib crampon, kapak es, dan tali

+2700 m 2–3 hari (4–6 jam ke base camp; hari puncak ±10–14 jam pulang-pergi dari base camp)

The normal route on Haba starts in Haba village (±2,700 m), about an hour's drive from the exit of Tiger Leaping Gorge on the way to Zhongdian/Shangri-La. From the village, a 4–6 hour walk through Yunnan forest and three meadows brings climbers to base camp at around 4,100–4,150 m. If the schedule allows, an acclimatisation day at base camp is strongly advised — the popular option is a ±4-hour round trip to Black Lake. Summit day starts before dawn: a rocky trail climbs to about 4,500 m, then the terrain opens up to the snowline, which usually begins around 4,900 m. Some teams place a high camp at ±4,900 m just below the glacier, but most climbers push for the summit and back from base camp in a single day. Above the snowline crampons and a rope go on. The crux is 绝望坡, the 'Slope of Despair' between 5,100 and 5,300 m — a long snow ramp that drains energy in thin air — before the final ridge to the 5,396 m summit. Failure here is usually not about technical difficulty but altitude sickness caused by the fast gain from 2,700 m.

Route Segments

1

Desa Haba (2.700 m) → Base Camp (±4.100 m)

⏱ 4–6 jam 4.100 mdpl

Menembus hutan Yunnan dan melintasi tiga padang rumput; kuda pengangkut sering dipakai untuk logistik
2

Aklimatisasi: Base Camp → Danau Hitam (Black Lake) → Base Camp

⏱ ±4 jam pulang-pergi

Opsional tapi sangat dianjurkan — hari tambahan ini menaikkan peluang sukses secara signifikan
3

Base Camp → Garis salju (±4.900 m)

⏱ 3–4 jam 4.900 mdpl

Jalur batu terbuka; sebagian tim berkemah di sini sebelum masuk gletser
4

Garis salju → 绝望坡 'Lereng Keputusasaan' (5.100–5.300 m)

⏱ 2–3 jam 5.300 mdpl

Tanjakan salju panjang, bagian terberat rute; crampon, kapak es, dan tali wajib
5

Punggungan atas → Puncak Haba (5.396 m)

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 5.396 mdpl

Panorama ke Yulong Xueshan di seberang Ngarai Lompat Harimau; turun ke base camp di hari yang sama

Source

Climbing Experiences

Haba Snow Mountain is often described as a Chinese climber's 'first snow mountain' — for many it is their debut 5,000er. The pattern is fairly standard: sleep in Haba village (±2,700 m), then walk 4–6 hours through Yunnan forest and meadows to a base camp around 4,100 m. If time allows, an extra day is spent acclimatising, usually on an easy walk up to Black Lake and back. Summit day starts before dawn: a rocky trail climbs to the snowline near 4,900 m, where crampons and a rope go on for the glacier section. The real test is 绝望坡, the 'Slope of Despair' between 5,100 and 5,300 m, a long snow ramp that saps energy in thin air. Above it the summit ridge opens up views across Tiger Leaping Gorge to Yulong Xueshan. Climbers' accounts nearly all stress the same point: the mountain demands no technical climbing skill, but the altitude gain is fast, and altitude sickness is the most common reason people turn back.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.