GUNUNG · Austria

Grossglockner

Großglockner

Information

Elevation: 3.798 m
Country: Austria (AT)
Location / Range: Glockner Group, Hohe Tauern Mountains — Central Eastern Alps
Mountain type: High-altitude rock pyramid peak with glaciated routes (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 47.0745, 12.6938
Difficulty: Hard and high-acclimatization (hochtour): the normal route is graded PD with a glacier of about 35° and UIAA II rock climbing on the summit ridge; demands crampons, ice axe, rope, and crevasse-rescue technique
Best Season: Mid-June–September (the most stable glacier and weather conditions)
Permits & Rules: No formal climbing permit; hut reservations (Stüdlhütte, Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte/Adlersruhe) are mandatory in the busy season. A certified mountain guide is strongly recommended for those without hochtour experience
Hazards: Crevasses on the Ködnitzkees glacier, high exposure and falls on the summit ridge, rapid weather changes, freezing and strong winds, and climber congestion in the busy season on the fixed-rope section

Description

The Grossglockner (3,798 m) is the highest mountain in Austria, standing on the border of Carinthia and East Tyrol as the main summit of the Glockner Group in the Hohe Tauern range. Its pyramid form has two peaks — the Grossglockner and the Kleinglockner (3,770 m) — separated by the Glocknerscharte col. The Pasterze, Austria's longest glacier, lies on its eastern slope. Its first ascent was recorded on 28 July 1800. It is topographically remarkable: its prominence is among the highest in the entire Alps. The normal climbing route is a high-altitude hochtour from the Stüdlhütte across the Ködnitzkees glacier to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (Adlersruhe, 3,454 m — the highest hut in Austria), then along an exposed rock-and-snow ridge to the summit. For non-climbing visitors, the area is famous via the Grossglockner High Alpine Road built in the 1930s.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Normalweg (jalur normal) via Stüdlhütte & Adlersruhe

PD; gletser hingga ±35° dan panjat batu UIAA II di punggungan puncak, beberapa seksi bertali tetap

2 hari (bermalam di Stüdlhütte/Adlersruhe; summit pulang-pergi panjang)

The most common climbing line. From Lucknerhaus/Kals up to the Stüdlhütte (2,802 m), then across the Ködnitzkees glacier to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (Adlersruhe, 3,454 m) — Austria's highest hut. From there an exposed rock-and-snow ridge crosses the Kleinglockner and the Glocknerscharte col to the summit. It demands crampons, ice axe, rope and crevasse-rescue skills; usually with a guide for those new to high-altitude tours.

Route Segments

1

Lucknerhaus → Stüdlhütte

2.802 mdpl

Pendekatan jalan setapak ke pondok dasar
2

Stüdlhütte → Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (Adlersruhe)

3.454 mdpl

Menyeberangi gletser Ködnitzkees; pondok tertinggi di Austria
3

Adlersruhe → Kleinglockner → puncak Grossglockner

3.798 mdpl

Punggungan batu & salju berekposur, seksi bertali tetap, melewati Glocknerscharte

Source

Stüdlgrat (punggungan barat daya) — alternatif teknis

AD; panjat batu berekposur (hingga UIAA III) di sepanjang punggungan, lebih teknis dari Normalweg

2 hari (bermalam di Stüdlhütte; summit panjang)

A classic alternative, more technical than the normal route, following the south-west ridge (Stüdlgrat) with exposed rock climbing along the arête to the summit. Suited to experienced alpinists comfortable with technical climbing; usually with a guide.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing the Grossglockner (3,798 m) is a high-altitude hochtour, not an ordinary trek. The most common line is the Normalweg: an overnight at the Stüdlhütte (2,802 m), a pre-dawn start across the Ködnitzkees glacier to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (Adlersruhe, 3,454 m), then an exposed rock-and-snow ridge with fixed-rope sections over the Kleinglockner and the Glocknerscharte col to the summit. A more demanding alternative is the Stüdlgrat ridge. Climbers stress mastery of crampons, ice axe, rope, crevasse rescue, acclimatisation, and usually hiring a mountain guide if inexperienced.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.