GUNUNG · Prancis/Italia

Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Walker)

Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Walker

Information

Elevation: 4.208 m
Country: Prancis/Italia (FR)
Location / Range: Massif Mont Blanc — perbatasan Haute-Savoie (Prancis) & Lembah Aosta (Italia)
Mountain type: Puncak batu-es alpine (granit, non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 45.8689, 6.9881
Difficulty: Sangat berat & teknis (alpinisme campuran batu-es; jalur normal PD+/AD, dinding utara TD+/ED)
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September untuk jalur normal; dinding utara umumnya dipanjat musim dingin/awal musim semi saat kondisi es stabil
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin formal; reservasi Rifugio Boccalatte–Piolti (2.803 m) dianjurkan, dan pemandu IFMGA sangat disarankan
Hazards: Eksposur tinggi, jatuhan batu & es, retakan gletser (Planpincieux), perubahan cuaca cepat, rute panjang menuntut kecepatan dan aklimatisasi

Description

The Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m at Pointe Walker) is one of the most imposing peaks of the Mont Blanc massif, straddling the border between Haute-Savoie (France) and the Aosta Valley (Italy). Its jagged summit ridge holds several named towers, including Pointe Walker (4,208 m) and Pointe Whymper (4,184 m). Pointe Walker was first climbed by Horace Walker with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange on 30 June 1868, while Pointe Whymper had been reached earlier in 1865 by what is now the normal route. The mountain is best known for its soaring North Face — one of the 'three great north faces of the Alps' alongside the Eiger and the Matterhorn. The classic line on that wall, the Walker Spur (Éperon Walker), pioneered by Riccardo Cassin, Ugo Tizzoni and Gino Esposito in 1938, is regarded as one of the most iconic alpine climbs in the world. Ascending the Grandes Jorasses demands mixed alpine mountaineering skills, not an ordinary trek.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur normal Pointe Whymper/Walker via Rocher du Reposoir (dari Rifugio Boccalatte)

PD+/AD — alpinisme campuran batu-es; menyeberang gletser lalu memanjat punggungan batu

2 hari (menginap di Rifugio Boccalatte 2.803 m; summit pulang-pergi panjang)

The easiest ascent route, from the Italian side. From the Boccalatte–Piolti Hut (2,803 m) climb north across the Planpincieux glacier, pass a zone of large crevasses, then reach the Rocher du Reposoir (~3,450 m) and climb the Rochers Whymper ridge to Pointe Whymper (4,184 m); from there traverse to Pointe Walker (4,208 m). It still demands alpine skill, speed and acclimatization — not an ordinary trek.

Route Segments

1

Rifugio Boccalatte → gletser Planpincieux

3.100 mdpl

Pendekatan menyeberangi gletser; zona retakan besar
2

Gletser → Rocher du Reposoir

3.450 mdpl

Dasar punggungan batu jalur normal
3

Rochers Whymper → Pointe Whymper → Pointe Walker

4.208 mdpl

Punggungan batu ke Pointe Whymper (4.184 m) lalu traverse ke puncak Walker (4.208 m)

Source

Walker Spur (Eperon Walker) — jalur klasik Dinding Utara

TD+/ED1, ~1.200 m; pemanjatan batu-es murni tingkat tinggi (Cassin/Esposito/Tizzoni, 1938)

1–2 hari pemanjatan (biasanya bivak di dinding)

The iconic North Face line, leading directly to the summit of Pointe Walker. Pioneered by Riccardo Cassin, Gino Esposito and Ugo Tizzoni in 1938 and regarded as one of the greatest alpine climbs in the world. Highly technical and committing; for experienced climbers only, when the mountain is in excellent condition.

Source

Climbing Experiences

The Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m) is a serious mountaineering objective, not a walking trek. The normal route to Pointe Walker climbs from the Boccalatte Hut (2,803 m) on the Italian side, crossing the Planpincieux glacier and then climbing the Rocher du Reposoir and Rochers Whymper (PD+/AD). The mountain is most famous, however, for its North Face — one of the 'three great north faces of the Alps' — with the classic Walker Spur (Cassin, 1938; TD+/ED) a dream line for many climbers. The videos below capture real experiences of climbers and expedition teams on the north face and Walker Spur, showing the mixed rock-and-ice terrain, extreme exposure, and high commitment these routes demand.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.