GUNUNG · United States

Grand Teton

Information

Elevation: 4.199 m
Country: United States (US)
Location / Range: Teton Range (Rocky Mountains)
Mountain type: Mountain (granite peak)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 43.7412, -110.8024
Difficulty: Strenuous (technical climbing)
Best Season: Mid-July–September (summer, once the snow has receded)
Permits & Rules: Located in Grand Teton National Park; a backcountry/bivouac permit from the NPS is mandatory for overnight stays, and inexperienced climbers generally use a licensed mountain guide.
Hazards: Exposed climbing pitches at altitude, rockfall, fast-moving afternoon thunderstorms, and a confusing descent route.

Description

Grand Teton (4,199 m) is the highest peak and icon of the Teton Range in northwestern Wyoming, rising abruptly without foothills above Jackson Hole. Unlike the Cascade volcanoes, it is a granite peak demanding genuine technical climbing. The easiest classic line, the Owen–Spalding, and the longer Upper Exum Ridge both require rope, harness and class-5 scrambling. Many parties bivouac at the Lower Saddle for a pre-dawn summit push, while strong climbers do it in a single long day from the Lupine Meadows trailhead.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Owen–Spalding Route (jalur klasik)

Berat (5.5; memerlukan tali, harness, dan scramble kelas 4–5)

21.00 km +2130 m 2 hari (bivak di Lower Saddle); bisa 1 hari penuh 10–18 jam

Most popular route to Grand Teton (4,199 m), first completed on 11 August 1898. Starting from Lupine Meadows Trailhead (6,732 ft), the trail climbs through Garnet Canyon to the Lower Saddle (11,600 ft) where most parties bivouac. From the saddle the line passes technical pitches including the 'Belly Roll', 'The Crawl', and 'Exum Crack' slot to the summit — consistently high exposure throughout. A guide is recommended for parties without a technical climbing background.

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Upper Exum Ridge

Berat–Sangat Berat (5.5–5.7; rute paling ikonis di Grand Teton)

21.00 km +2145 m 2 hari (bivak di Lower Saddle)

The most celebrated route on Grand Teton, first soloed by Glenn Exum in 1931. From the Lower Saddle the line traverses iconic features: 'Wall Street', 'Step Across', 'Golden Staircase', 'Wind Tunnel' and 'Friction Pitch' to the summit. Blends aesthetic exposed face climbing with spectacular scenery — total gain from Lupine Meadows approximately 2,145 m.

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Safety Statistics

High risk

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

46 Recorded deaths

Period 1997–2014 · 46 backcountry fatalities in Grand Teton National Park, 1997-2014 (Montopoli study; a continuation of the 1925-1996 analysis). A uniform climber denominator is not published, so no fatality rate is computed to avoid extrapolation.

Causes of death

Fall 25.00%

💡 Keep using rope & protection, especially on the descent; most fatal accidents happen while moving unroped on the way up and down.
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Lost / disoriented 10.00%

💡 Study the descent line beforehand and carry a map/GPS; many incidents begin with wrong route choices on the way back.
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Avalanche

💡 Avalanches are the second-leading cause of death; avoid loaded snow slopes after storms and in winter-spring, and check the avalanche forecast before you go.
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Severe weather

💡 Start pre-dawn and aim to be off the summit before noon; nearly all recorded lightning strikes occurred after midday.
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Notable incidents

1925 First recorded fatality in the park (1925)

The first documented fatality occurred when a climber slipped on a snow slope of the Grand Teton; the glacier where it happened is now known as Teepe Glacier. It underscores that slips on snow during descent are a classic hazard here.
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2003 Lightning strike on the Grand Teton (26 July 2003)

A single lightning bolt struck a party high on the Grand Teton around midday, killing one climber and injuring several others and triggering a large rescue. Lesson: afternoon thunderstorms are a real threat; plan to be off the summit before noon.
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Statistics source: Source Source

Climbing Experiences

Grand Teton (4,199 m) is a technical climb: the classic Owen–Spalding line needs rope, harness and class-5 scrambling. Many bivouac at the Lower Saddle for a pre-dawn summit, while some do it car-to-car from Lupine Meadows. Climbers highlight the iconic 'Belly Roll' pitch, big exposure, and afternoon thunderstorm risk.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.