GUNUNG · Pakistan

Gasherbrum IV

گاشر برم چہارم (Gasherbrum IV)

Gasherbrum IV (7.925 m) di Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.925 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram (masif Gasherbrum)
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Karakoram (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.7592, 76.6158
Difficulty: Ekstrem (ED+) — dinding batu & es sangat curam, alpinisme kelas dunia; salah satu tujuh-ribuan tersulit di dunia
Best Season: Juni–Agustus (musim panas Karakoram)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian Alpine Club of Pakistan / Gilgit-Baltistan + petugas penghubung (liaison officer)
Hazards: Dinding sangat curam & terpapar, batu rapuh dan es tergantung, longsoran, badai mendadak, ketinggian ekstrem tanpa jalur 'mudah'

Description

Gasherbrum IV, originally surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan — as well as the highest independent peak under eight thousand metres in Pakistan (7,925 m). One of the summits in the Gasherbrum massif of the Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram, its immense West Face looms over the glacial junction of Concordia. The name 'Gasherbrum' is often rendered 'Shining Wall' for the way that face reflects the setting sun, though it actually derives from Balti 'rgasha' (beautiful) and 'brum' (mountain), meaning 'beautiful mountain.' Despite being lower than its eight-thousander neighbours, Gasherbrum IV is revered as an extreme technical challenge — many rate it harder than K2. It was first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (Riccardo Cassin's Italian expedition) on 6 August 1958 via the Northeast Ridge. In 1985, Wojciech Kurtyka and Robert Schauer climbed the ~2,500 m West Face in pure alpine style — hailed as one of the greatest alpine-style ascents of the 20th century.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Barat — 'Shining Wall' (1985), gaya alpine

ED+ / gaya alpine murni — dinding batu & es ~2.500 m yang sangat curam dan terpapar, salah satu dinding ketinggian tersulit di dunia

13–20 Juli 1985 (±7 hari di dinding, gaya alpine tanpa tali tetap) — Wojciech Kurtyka & Robert Schauer

Gasherbrum IV's West Face — the 'Shining Wall' — was climbed in pure alpine style by Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland) and Robert Schauer (Austria) between 13–20 July 1985. Rising ~2,500 m above Concordia, it is regarded as one of the hardest and most vertical high-altitude walls on Earth. Near 7,800 m, out of food and fuel and trapped by a storm, retreat down the face was impossible; the pair survived by descending a ridge after reaching the North Summit (not the main top). The ascent was named by Climbing magazine as the greatest Himalayan climb of the 20th century and remains unrepeated. This route is NOT for commercial expeditions.

Source

Punggungan Timur Laut (Northeast Ridge) — rute pendakian pertama 1958

ED (Extrêmement Difficile) — punggungan panjang bertakik dengan menara batu/es, crux traverse menuju puncak utama, ketinggian ekstrem

Ekspedisi total ±40–50 hari gaya berat; puncak lewat rangkaian kamp tinggi di atas Gletser Gasherbrum

The Northeast Ridge is Gasherbrum IV's first-ascent route, opened by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri on Riccardo Cassin's Italian expedition on 6 August 1958. The approach runs up the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia and then the Gasherbrum Glacier. The crux is traversing the pinnacled ridge to the main 7,925 m summit. The route remains very rarely repeated — Gasherbrum IV is not a commercial peak and is only feasible for highly experienced alpinists.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Gasherbrum IV (7,925 m) in the Baltoro Muztagh of the Karakoram is one of the world's hardest seven-thousanders — its West Face, rising 2,500 m above Concordia, is rated by many alpinists as tougher than K2. This is not a commercial objective: its history is one of visionary alpine-style ascents and many failed attempts. The links below document that legacy — from the legendary Wojciech Kurtyka & Robert Schauer 'Shining Wall' story (1985) to modern new-route attempts, plus an archival first-hand account from the American Alpine Club. All links verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.