GUNUNG · Pakistan / China

Gasherbrum I

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak / K5) / گاشر برم-1

Information

Elevation: 8.080 m
Country: Pakistan / China (PK)
Location / Range: Karakoram (Gasherbrum massif), Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) – Xinjiang (China) border
Mountain type: Mountain peak (non-volcanic, Karakoram rock & ice)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.7244, 76.6964
Difficulty: Extreme (an 8,000 m peak); steeper and more technical than Gasherbrum II, with the Japanese Couloir as the key to the normal route
Best Season: Late June–August (Karakoram summer); the approach to base camp via the Baltoro Glacier is best in July–August
Permits & Rules: Climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan government/Alpine Club of Pakistan, a liaison officer, and a guide and porters; approach from Askole along the Baltoro Glacier–Concordia
Hazards: Extreme altitude, the steep Japanese Couloir prone to rock/ice fall, crevasses on the Gasherbrum Glacier, avalanches, and the rapidly changing Karakoram weather

Description

Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th-highest mountain in the world and the highest point of the Gasherbrum massif in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) and Xinjiang (China). The name 'Hidden Peak' reflects its tucked-away position at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, screened from view by Gasherbrum IV and II. It was first climbed on 5 July 1958 by an American Karakoram expedition, with Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman reaching the summit. In 1975 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made history with the first alpine-style ascent of an eight-thousander via a new line on this mountain. The modern normal route — often called the Japanese route via the Japanese Couloir — starts on the north side from the Gasherbrum Glacier, shares Camp 1 with Gasherbrum II, then climbs the steep couloir to the West Spur and summit. Compared with G2, G1 is a quieter eight-thousander with far fewer successful ascents.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Japanese Couloir (sisi utara/barat)

Ekstrem (8.000-an, couloir curam & teknis)

Ekspedisi ±5–7 minggu (termasuk trek Baltoro & aklimatisasi)

Gasherbrum I's standard route starts on the north side from the Gasherbrum Glacier, sharing Camp 1 with Gasherbrum II. Climbers then ascend the Japanese Couloir — a steep, rockfall-prone ice-and-rock gully — to the West Spur, then follow the upper ridge to the 8,080 m summit. The couloir is usually climbed at night or in the early morning when colder temperatures make the ice more stable. The approach is long: from Askole along the legendary Baltoro Glacier to Concordia and base camp.

Source

Rute gaya alpine (Messner–Habeler, sisi barat laut)

Ekstrem (alpinisme ketinggian tinggi, tanpa oksigen tambahan)

Bagian dari ekspedisi puncak (dorongan ringan tanpa camp tetap)

A historic line on the northwest face pioneered by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1975 — the first alpine-style ascent of an eight-thousander, without a chain of fixed camps, high-altitude porters or supplemental oxygen. It became a touchstone for the fast-and-light climbing philosophy in the Karakoram, and is for experienced high-altitude mountaineers only.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), Hidden Peak, the world's 11th-highest eight-thousander in the Karakoram, is climbed via the normal Japanese Couloir route from the Gasherbrum Glacier. The videos and references below document real experiences — from an organized-expedition overview and oxygen-free summit pushes, to a technical guide to the couloir route.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.