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GUNUNG · Nepal

Gangapurna

गंगापूर्ण (Gangapurna)

Source
Gangapurna

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
7.455 m
Country
Nepal (NP)
Location / Range
Annapurna Himal, Himalaya
Mountain type
Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
28.6047, 83.9642
Difficulty
Expedition peak teknis serius yang jarang didaki (bukan trekking peak); dinding es curam & tingkat keberhasilan rendah
Best Season
Maret–Mei (musim semi) & September–November (musim gugur)
Permits & Rules
Royalti expedition peak Departemen Pariwisata/NMA (kelas 7.000 m) + izin masuk Kawasan Konservasi Annapurna (ACAP) + trek melewati wilayah Manang
Hazards
Glasiasi tebal & kawah es, lereng es/salju curam pada dinding selatan dan punggungan timur, risiko longsoran salju dan runtuhan serac, ketinggian 7.455 m, cuaca ekstrem

Description

Gangapurna (7,455 m) is a mountain in the Annapurna range, Gandaki Province, Nepal, lying entirely within the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP). This large ice peak towers directly above the village of Manang, and its glacier feeds Gangapurna Lake (~3,540 m) — one of the most-visited acclimatisation stops on the Annapurna Circuit. Unlike the lower trekking peaks around it, Gangapurna is a serious, rarely-climbed technical expedition peak: it was first ascended by a German expedition in 1965 via the south face and east ridge, with a Canadian alpine-style ascent in 1981 and a Piolet d'Or–nominated Korean south-face route in 2017 among later climbs. Its summit success rate is low and several 1988–1992 winter attempts failed. For most visitors, Gangapurna is experienced as a dramatic backdrop above Manang and as the objective of the acclimatisation walk to its glacier lake. As a Himalayan orogenic peak it is non-volcanic.

Routes

Jalan aklimatisasi ke Gangapurna Lake & Glacier dari Manang

Jalan aklimatisasi mudah/landai (bukan pendakian teknis)
±30 menit hingga setengah hari pulang-pergi dari Manang

From Manang village (~3,540 m) a short, mostly flat trail crosses to Gangapurna Lake at the toe of the Gangapurna Glacier, at about the same elevation. It is a popular acclimatisation excursion on the Annapurna Circuit, giving close views of the Gangapurna icefall and surrounding peaks, and pairs well with the nearby Chongkar viewpoint. It is best walked in clear morning hours during spring or autumn.

Source

Rute pendakian pertama 1965 — Dinding selatan & punggungan timur

Pendakian ekspedisi Himalaya teknis serius (7.455 m; expedition peak, bukan trekking peak)
Ekspedisi multi-minggu

The first ascent (6 May 1965) climbed the south face and joined the east ridge to the summit, approached from the Manang side by a German expedition. The face is steep and heavily glaciated, and the peak has seen relatively few ascents with several failed winter attempts, reflecting its difficulty.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Gangapurna (7,455 m) is a rarely-climbed expedition peak towering directly above Manang, so almost no verifiable genuine summit footage exists. But the mountain and its glacier lake are among the most iconic sights on the Annapurna Circuit: the short acclimatisation walk from Manang to Gangapurna Lake (~3,540 m) is one of the busiest stops on the trail. The videos below are all Annapurna Circuit / Manang / Gangapurna Lake viewpoint experiences that clearly feature the mountain and its glacier — not summit ascents — and are labelled honestly. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Gangapurna en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikipedia गंगापूर्ण ne.wikipedia.org · NE
  3. 3 Wikidata Gangapurna (Q1133863) wikidata.org · EN
  4. 4 Media What to do during acclimatization day in Manang nepalhikingteam.com · EN