GUNUNG · Swiss
Finsteraarhorn
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Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 4.274 m
- Country
- Swiss (CH)
- Location / Range
- Pegunungan Alpen — Alpen Bernese (perbatasan kanton Bern & Valais, Swiss)
- Mountain type
- Puncak berbatu-bersalju non-vulkanik (puncak tertinggi Alpen Bernese)
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 46.5375, 8.1261
- Difficulty
- Berat (AD-); pendekatan gletser sangat panjang, medan batu di ridge puncak, crampon & tali wajib
- Best Season
- Akhir Juni–September (kondisi glasial paling stabil; sering dikombinasikan sebagai tur ski musim semi)
- Permits & Rules
- Tanpa izin formal; menginap di Finsteraarhornhütte (3.048 m, SAC) praktis wajib; pemandu dianjurkan untuk navigasi gletser
- Hazards
- Celah gletser Fiescher & Unteraar yang luas, jatuhan batu di Hugisattel dan ridge puncak, cuaca berubah cepat, jarak pendekatan yang menuntut daya tahan
Description
The Finsteraarhorn (4,274 m) is the highest peak of the Bernese Alps and the most prominent mountain in Switzerland, straddling the border between the cantons of Bern and Valais. It is the ninth-highest summit and third-most prominent peak in the entire Alps. Unlike its snow-capped neighbours such as the Jungfrau, the Finsteraarhorn rises as a dark rock pyramid above the seas of ice of the Fiescher and Aletsch glaciers — the longest glacier in the Alps. The first attempt was recorded on 16 August 1812 by Rudolf Meyer's party, but the undisputed first ascent came on 10 August 1829 by the guides Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen, following the line that is today's normal route. Modern ascents almost always start from the Finsteraarhorn Hut (3,048 m, SAC) perched above the Fiescher glacier; from there climbers ascend the steep slope behind the hut, cross the rocky ridge, climb a snow funnel to the Hugisattel (~4,094 m), and finish along the final rock ridge to the summit. The combination of a very long glacier approach and mixed terrain makes it one of the most remote and memorable 4,000ers in the Alps.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Via Finsteraarhornhütte & Hugisattel — jalur normal (NW ridge)
AD-; pendekatan gletser sangat panjang, cekungan salju terjal, medan batu (grade II) di ridge puncakThe normal route for climbing the Finsteraarhorn. The approach is usually from Fiescheralp or the Jungfraujoch, crossing the icy expanse of Konkordiaplatz and the Fiescher glacier to the Finsteraarhorn Hut (3,048 m, SAC). From the hut the route climbs the steep slope behind it; at ~3,616 m it turns left across a rocky ridge, then ascends a snow funnel to the Hugisattel (~4,094 m). From the Hugisattel the climb continues on relatively easy rock — first on the west side, then staying on the ridge — to the 4,274 m summit. The long approach combined with mixed terrain makes it one of the most remote 4,000ers in the Alps.
Route Segments
- 1
Finsteraarhornhütte (SAC) → belokan ridge berbatu
Lereng curam di belakang pondok; belok kiri memotong ridge yang turun dari puncak
- 2
Ridge berbatu → Hugisattel — via cekungan salju
Cekungan salju terjal menuju sadel Hugisattel; crampon & tali wajib
- 3
Hugisattel → Puncak Finsteraarhorn (ridge puncak)
Batu relatif mudah (grade II), mula-mula sisi barat lalu tetap di ridge; eksposur tinggi
Climbing Experiences
Climbing the Finsteraarhorn (4,274 m) — the highest peak of the Bernese Alps — is a long glacier adventure usually starting from Fiescheralp or the Jungfraujoch, crossing Konkordiaplatz to the Finsteraarhorn Hut (3,048 m, SAC). From the hut, the normal route climbs the steep slope behind it, crosses a rocky ridge, ascends a snow funnel to the Hugisattel (~4,094 m), then finishes on the final rock ridge to the summit. Because the approach is so remote, many climbers combine it as a spring ski tour. The videos below document real ascents and ski tours to the summit.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.