GUNUNG · Swiss

Eiger

Information

Elevation: 3.967 m
Country: Swiss (CH)
Location / Range: Bernese Alps — Jungfrau Group (Bernese Oberland)
Mountain type: Limestone and gneiss peak (non-volcanic, orogenic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.5776, 8.0053
Difficulty: Extremely strenuous and technical (Normal Route via the West Flank: PD+; Nordwand: ED, for experienced alpinists)
Best Season: Mid-July–September (normal route; the Nordwand is best in winter/spring for alpinists)
Permits & Rules: No formal permit; access via Eigergletscher station (Jungfraujoch railway); there is no hut on the normal route
Hazards: Rockfall on the Nordwand (especially in warm weather), extreme exposure, sudden storm onslaughts, white-out, hypothermia, and glacier crevasses on the approach

Description

The Eiger (3,967 m) is one of the most iconic mountains in Europe, renowned for its Nordwand ('North Face') — a 1,800-metre near-vertical limestone wall dubbed 'Mordwand' (Murder Wall) after a series of tragedies in the 1930s. It stands beside the Mönch and Jungfrau above the Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen valleys in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland. The Nordwand was first climbed on 24 July 1938 by Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Andreas Heckmair, and Ludwig Vörg via the route that became the standard line, after at least 24 people had died attempting it. The mountain's normal route via the West Flank starts from the Eigergletscher station and is less extreme — not a technically desperate climb — but still demands alpine competence and weather awareness. The Eiger's reputation endures in culture: films such as 'The Eiger Sanction' (1975) and 'North Face' (2008) have kept its name synonymous with alpinism's ultimate challenge.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Eiger Trail — Trek Panorama di Bawah Nordwand

Mudah–Moderat (trek berbukit, tanpa teknis alpine)

6.00 km +100 m 2–3 jam (searah, Eigergletscher → Alpiglen)

The most popular non-summit trail around the Eiger, traversing grassy slopes directly below the Nordwand from Eigergletscher Station to Alpiglen. It offers spectacular close-up views of the Eiger North Face without having to climb it. Suitable for all ability levels and families. Can be combined with the Jungfrau train from Grindelwald.

Route Segments

1

Eigergletscher Station (2320 m) → Lereng Tengah

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 2.100 mdpl

Turun perlahan di jalur berumput di bawah dinding utara Eiger; sering ada rusa atau marmot
2

Lereng Tengah → Alpiglen (1616 m)

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 1.616 mdpl

Jalur terus turun melewati padang subalpine; stasiun kereta api Alpiglen untuk kembali ke Grindelwald

Source

West Flank — Jalur Normal (via Eigergletscher)

PD+ (Peu Difficile plus); pendakian alpine non-teknis-ekstrem namun eksposur tinggi

7.00 km +1300 m 5–8 jam pulang-pergi dari stasiun Eigergletscher

Eiger's normal route starts from Eigergletscher Station (2,320 m), reachable by Jungfrau Railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen. From the station, the trail heads west over mixed snow-and-rock slopes, climbs the Eigerjoch (a col on the west ridge), then follows the summit ridge to the top. Most of the route can be managed by experienced alpine climbers without extreme technical gear, but high exposure and rapidly changing conditions make it dangerous for beginners. A certified UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide is strongly recommended.

Route Segments

1

Eigergletscher Station (2320 m) → Lereng Barat Bawah

⏱ 1–1,5 jam 2.700 mdpl

Jalur awal di atas salju/es atau batu bergantung musim; pemandangan langsung ke Nordwand
2

Lereng Barat → Eigerjoch (~3600 m)

⏱ 2–3 jam 3.600 mdpl

Pendakian batu dan salju dengan seksi lebih curam; paparan angin meningkat signifikan
3

Eigerjoch → Puncak (3967 m)

⏱ 1–2 jam 3.967 mdpl

Punggungan puncak dengan eksposur tinggi; pemandangan ke Nordwand dan seluruh Bernese Oberland

Source

Climbing Experiences

The name Eiger is almost synonymous with its Nordwand — a 1,800-metre near-vertical north face that became the greatest alpine challenge of the 20th century. Beyond the Nordwand, which is strictly for elite alpinists, the Eiger also has a normal route via the West Flank from Eigergletscher station that is far more accessible technically. Climbers' accounts and vlogs describe the north face as a combination of loose rock, ice, rockfall, sudden storms, and the kind of psychological exposure that breaks spirits. For non-alpinists, the Eiger Trail below the face and views from Männlichen offer stunning close-up perspectives of the north wall without the risk.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.