GUNUNG · Rusia

Dykh-Tau

Дых-Тау (Dykh-Tau) / Dychtau

Information

Elevation: 5.205 m
Country: Rusia (RU)
Location / Range: Greater Caucasus Mountains, Bezengi Wall — Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia
Mountain type: Glacier-clad alpine granite peak, not a volcano — part of the Bezingi Wall in the Greater Caucasus Mountains
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 43.0544, 43.1303
Difficulty: Highly technical (Russian 4A–5A / equivalent to Alpine AD+–D); the entire route demands ice climbing, mixed rock-ice terrain, and mature alpine expedition experience — there is no non-technical option
Best Season: July–September (the most stable weather window in the Bezengi valley)
Permits & Rules: A Russian visa must specify Kabardino-Balkaria/Bezengi; an FSB border-zone permit must be applied for at least 90 days before departure; registration at the Bezengi Alpine Camp (2,180 m) is mandatory
Hazards: Very frequent avalanches (on all routes), long and exposed rock-ice terrain, crevasses on the Bezengi glacier, drastically changing weather, extreme altitude (>5,000 m), and remote access via the Bezengi valley requiring a 4WD vehicle

Description

Dykh-Tau (Dychtau, 5,205 m) is the second-highest peak in Europe, rising from the Bezengi Wall of the Greater Caucasus in Kabardino-Balkaria — a massif often called the 'Russian Himalaya' for hosting five peaks above 5,000 m in a single valley. Unlike Elbrus with its cable car approach, Dykh-Tau offers no easy option: every route is graded at least 4A (Russian system) / AD+ (Alpine), demanding ice climbing, mixed terrain, and seasoned alpine-expedition experience. The first ascent was made on 24 July 1888 by British alpinist Albert Frederick Mummery and Swiss guide Heinrich Zurfluh via the southwest buttress. Frequent avalanches and objective hazards on all lines make it one of the most technically demanding and dangerous peaks in Europe.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Buttress Barat Daya (Southwest Buttress) — jalur pendakian pertama Mummery 1888

4A Rusia / AD Alpine; panjat batu dan campuran, sedikit lebih pendek secara teknis dari Punggung Utara di seksi kunci

7–10 hari ekspedisi; rute lebih panjang dan lebih jarang dilalui dibanding Punggung Utara

The historic line used during the first ascent on 24 July 1888 by Mummery and Zurfluh. Approached from the southwest via a different glacier system, then ascending a mixed-rock buttress to the summit. Today less frequented than the North Ridge but remains a historic and technical route with the same objective hazards. Typically attempted by experienced teams following in the footsteps of the first ascent.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Dykh-Tau (5,205 m) is a serious alpine expedition, not a trekking ascent. The most common line is the North Ridge (Russian 4B / AD+): from the Bezengi Alpine Camp (2,180 m), teams establish one or two high camps on the glacier and mixed slopes, then traverse long, avalanche-prone mixed terrain to the summit — a total of six to eight expedition days. Every route demands ice-climbing, rock-anchoring, and crevasse-rescue competency; most climbers engage services from agencies like AlexClimb or Madison Mountaineering. Climbers consistently stress how different Dykh-Tau feels from Elbrus: no snow-cat, no cosy huts, and avalanche danger present on every route every day.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.