GUNUNG · Swiss
Dufourspitze
Dufourspitze / Punta Dufour
Source
Photo: source
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- Feels like
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 4.634 m
- Country
- Swiss (CH)
- Location / Range
- Alps — Pennine Alps (Monte Rosa massif, Valais/Switzerland)
- Mountain type
- Non-volcanic rocky, snow-covered peak (the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif, Pennine Alps)
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 45.9354, 7.8669
- Difficulty
- Strenuous (AD); requires a long glacier traverse, with crampons, harness, and rope mandatory throughout the route
- Best Season
- June–September (most stable snow conditions; July–August ideal; easier access to the Monte Rosa Hütte)
- Permits & Rules
- No formal permit; reservation at the Monte Rosa Hütte (2,883 m, SAC) mandatory; an IFMGA guide is strongly recommended
- Hazards
- Glacier crevasses on the Gorner & Grenz Glaciers, icefall and rockfall, sudden alpine storms, risk of hypothermia and altitude sickness (HACE/HAPE) at 4,634 m
Description
Dufourspitze (4,634 m) is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second-highest peak in the Alps after Mont Blanc, standing as the principal summit of the Monte Rosa massif in the Pennine Alps on the border between Canton Valais (CH) and Italy. Named in honour of Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour, it was first climbed in 1855 by a team led by Charles Hudson. The normal route in use since 1872 departs from the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m) — a futuristic SAC-owned hut perched on the rocky Plattje island between the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, reached from Rotenboden station on the Gornergratbahn. The ascent crosses undulating glaciers and climbs the glaciated eastern face through steep snow and ice before the final ridge to the summit. Compared with the nearby and more famous Matterhorn, Dufourspitze sees relatively fewer climbers despite comparable technical demands, and rewards with one of the widest Alpine panoramas — from Mont Blanc to the full Bernese Oberland chain.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Cresta Rey (punggung batu gneiss langsung ke puncak) dari Monte Rosa Hütte
AD+ / D — panjat batu gneiss kualitas baik, sebagian besar tingkat III dengan satu langkah IV, dikombinasikan medan campuran es-batuA more technical and aesthetic alternative to the normal route. From the Monte Rosa Hut (or Margherita/Gnifetti Hut) descend to about 4,000 m on the upper Grenz Glacier, then head to the bowl below the Grenzsattel and approach the foot of the Cresta Rey. The ridge is often called the 'perfect line' because it rises straight from the glacier to the Dufourspitze summit cross over high-quality gneiss — flakes, cracks and spikes that make for enjoyable climbing. Most difficulties are grade III with a single overhanging IV step; it is best when the rock is warm and dry, and much harder when wet or snowy. Descent is usually via the Zumsteinspitze and Col Gnifetti. Requires alpine rock-climbing ability plus glacier travel.
Route Segments
- 1
Monte Rosa Hütte → Grenzgletscher atas (±4.000 m) → cekungan bawah Grenzsattel
Persilangan gletser bercelah; orientasi kritis; crampon & tali dari awal
- 2
Kaki Cresta Rey → punggung gneiss (III, satu langkah IV)
Panjat batu alpin sepanjang punggung; paling baik saat kering-hangat; eksposur tinggi
- 3
Puncak Dufourspitze → turun via Zumsteinspitze & Col Gnifetti
Traverse puncak; jalur turun berbeda dari jalur naik — rencanakan waktu dan cuaca
Via Monte Rosa Hütte (Face Timur) — jalur normal sejak 1872
AD (Assez Difficile); glacier travel panjang, crampon & harness wajib; tali tetap di beberapa seksiThe standard and most commonly used route for climbing Dufourspitze. Day one: from Rotenboden station (Gornergratbahn from Zermatt) cross the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m) — a futuristic SAC-designed hut that must be reserved in advance. Day two: pre-dawn departure, crossing the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, ascending the glaciated eastern face alternating between snow, ice, and rock, then following the final ridge to the 4,634 m summit. This route was established in 1872 and remains the line used by most alpinists today. Graded AD with fixed ropes on some steep sections.
Route Segments
- 1
Rotenboden (Gornergratbahn, 2.815 m) → Monte Rosa Hütte
Persilangan Gorner Glacier (±3–4 jam); pondok SAC dengan kapasitas terbatas — reservasi online wajib; tidak ada air di pondok (es leleh)
- 2
Monte Rosa Hütte → Sattel (sadel eastern face) — via Gorner & Grenz Glacier
Persilangan gletser panjang dengan celah; orientasi kritis dalam cuaca buruk; crampon & tali dipakai dari awal
- 3
Sattel → Puncak Dufourspitze (ridge final)
Ridge salju/es terjal; tali tetap di beberapa bagian; eksposur tinggi — perlu kecepatan untuk menghindari cuaca siang
Climbing Experiences
Climbing the Dufourspitze (4,634 m) — Switzerland's highest peak and second in the western Alps — is a serious two-day alpine undertaking. Day one: from Rotenboden station (Gornergratbahn, near Zermatt), cross the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m), a futuristic SAC-designed hut floating on the rocky Plattje island amid a sea of ice. Day two: pre-dawn departure, crossing the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, climbing the glaciated eastern face through steep snow and ice, then following the final ridge to the summit. The normal route (in use since 1872) is graded AD and requires crampons, harness, and rope throughout. The summit view takes in the entire 'wall of 4,000-metre peaks' of the Pennine Alps, the Matterhorn ridge to the west, and — on a clear day — nearly the full Alpine chain. Compared with the tourist-heavy Matterhorn, Dufourspitze offers a quieter experience while being technically comparable.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.