GUNUNG · Swiss

Dufourspitze

Dufourspitze / Punta Dufour

Information

Elevation: 4.634 m
Country: Swiss (CH)
Location / Range: Alps — Pennine Alps (Monte Rosa massif, Valais/Switzerland)
Mountain type: Non-volcanic rocky, snow-covered peak (the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif, Pennine Alps)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 45.9354, 7.8669
Difficulty: Strenuous (AD); requires a long glacier traverse, with crampons, harness, and rope mandatory throughout the route
Best Season: June–September (most stable snow conditions; July–August ideal; easier access to the Monte Rosa Hütte)
Permits & Rules: No formal permit; reservation at the Monte Rosa Hütte (2,883 m, SAC) mandatory; an IFMGA guide is strongly recommended
Hazards: Glacier crevasses on the Gorner & Grenz Glaciers, icefall and rockfall, sudden alpine storms, risk of hypothermia and altitude sickness (HACE/HAPE) at 4,634 m

Description

Dufourspitze (4,634 m) is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second-highest peak in the Alps after Mont Blanc, standing as the principal summit of the Monte Rosa massif in the Pennine Alps on the border between Canton Valais (CH) and Italy. Named in honour of Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour, it was first climbed in 1855 by a team led by Charles Hudson. The normal route in use since 1872 departs from the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m) — a futuristic SAC-owned hut perched on the rocky Plattje island between the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, reached from Rotenboden station on the Gornergratbahn. The ascent crosses undulating glaciers and climbs the glaciated eastern face through steep snow and ice before the final ridge to the summit. Compared with the nearby and more famous Matterhorn, Dufourspitze sees relatively fewer climbers despite comparable technical demands, and rewards with one of the widest Alpine panoramas — from Mont Blanc to the full Bernese Oberland chain.

Gallery

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Climbing Experiences

Climbing the Dufourspitze (4,634 m) — Switzerland's highest peak and second in the western Alps — is a serious two-day alpine undertaking. Day one: from Rotenboden station (Gornergratbahn, near Zermatt), cross the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m), a futuristic SAC-designed hut floating on the rocky Plattje island amid a sea of ice. Day two: pre-dawn departure, crossing the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, climbing the glaciated eastern face through steep snow and ice, then following the final ridge to the summit. The normal route (in use since 1872) is graded AD and requires crampons, harness, and rope throughout. The summit view takes in the entire 'wall of 4,000-metre peaks' of the Pennine Alps, the Matterhorn ridge to the west, and — on a clear day — nearly the full Alpine chain. Compared with the tourist-heavy Matterhorn, Dufourspitze offers a quieter experience while being technically comparable.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.