GUNUNG · Nepal

Dorje Lhakpa

Dorje Lhakpa / Dorje Lakpa

Information

Elevation: 6.966 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Jugal Himal, tenggara Lembah Langtang, Nepal (terlihat dari Lembah Kathmandu)
Mountain type: Puncak pegunungan (non-vulkanik, batuan & es Himalaya)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.1739, 85.7792
Difficulty: Sulit — sering disebut tingkat menengah untuk gunung ekspedisi, dengan rute termudah lewat punggung barat (west ridge); tetap menuntut kemampuan es & punggung terpapar
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Mei) dan musim gugur (Oktober–November)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian dari Department of Tourism Nepal / Nepal Mountaineering Association; pendakian ditawarkan banyak agen trekking Nepal
Hazards: Punggung es terpapar, serac dan crevasse, salju tak stabil yang bisa memaksa mundur, serta ketinggian mendekati 7.000 m

Description

Dorje Lhakpa (6,966 m; also spelled Dorje Lakpa) is an elegant pyramid-shaped mountain in the Jugal Himal, southeast of the Langtang valley in Nepal. Clearly visible from the Kathmandu valley, its sharp profile makes it a favourite target for photographers and mountaineers alike. Many rate it as intermediate difficulty for an expedition peak, with the easiest line following the west ridge, and its ascent is offered by many Nepali trekking and mountaineering agencies. Even so, real climbing accounts show serious terrain: exposed ice ridges, seracs and crevasses, with unstable snow that has more than once forced teams to turn back short of the summit.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggung Barat (West Ridge) — rute normal

Sulit (menengah untuk gunung ekspedisi; punggung es terpapar)

Ekspedisi ±3 minggu (termasuk trek pendekatan lewat Jugal/Langtang & aklimatisasi)

Dorje Lhakpa's easiest and normal route follows the west ridge. Carlos Buhler soloed it in 1992 with a roughly 21-hour summit push from a high bivouac, crossing exposed ice ridges, seracs and crevasses. Although often rated intermediate, the line still demands solid ice skills and altitude experience; unstable snow forced another team to turn back at about 6,100 m.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Dorje Lhakpa (6,966 m), the elegant pyramid of the Jugal Himal visible from the Kathmandu valley. The sources below document real experiences around the mountain — from first-hand climbing accounts via the west ridge, to clear footage of its pyramid form from trekking viewpoints near Kathmandu (Chisapani, Ama Yangri, Panch Pokhari).

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.