GUNUNG · Pakistan

Distaghil Sar

دستاغل سر (Distaghil Sar / Disteghil Sar)

Distaghil Sar dan puncak sekitarnya, foto dari Stasiun Luar Angkasa Internasional (ISS).. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.885 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Mountain type: Non-volcanic peak covered in snow and ice
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.3258, 75.1883
Difficulty: Technical mountaineering expedition; snow and ice faces and remote glacier approaches
Best Season: Documented expeditions took place from May to August; these are historical accounts, not guarantees of safe weather.
Permits & Rules: The 2008 expedition arranged permission through Pakistan’s Ministry of Tourism and a local agent. Historical fees and procedures should not be treated as current.
Hazards: Expedition accounts record avalanches, serac collapse, glacier crevasses, storms and frostbite; approach conditions can change substantially.

Description

Distaghil Sar (7,885 m in Wikidata) is the highest peak of the Hispar Muztagh in Pakistan’s Karakoram. Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart reached the summit on 9 June 1960. Stärker describes serac danger and frostbite during the descent. The Spanish ascent took place in 1982; 1983 is the American Alpine Journal publication year, not the climb date. In 2008, Bruce Normand’s team abandoned its northern objective after finding hazardous ice conditions. These accounts describe technical expedition terrain rather than an ordinary trekking trail. Herbert Tschochner’s report in AAJ 1989 records repeated ice avalanches beneath Trivor and Bularung blocking the northern approach and forcing a change of objective.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Sisi selatan → punggungan barat daya (rute historis 1960)

Alpinisme teknis; salju, es dan serac

From the Kunyang Glacier area, the Austrian team climbed the south side to the ridge rising from the western col. Seracs and storms complicated both ascent and descent. This describes the 1960 climb, not present route conditions.

Source

Variasi Spanyol 1982 pada rute Austria

Alpinisme ekspedisi pada salju dan es

Approach via Nagar–Hispar–Kunyang. The team stayed right of the 1960 line between Camps I and II before reaching the west ridge. This is a historical variation of the same route, not a separate hiking trail.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Four participant reports cover the 1960 first ascent, the Spanish repeat in 1982, the abandonment of the northern approach in an AAJ report published in 1989, and the 2008 team’s retreat. The latter two show how ice hazards can prevent access before an attempt on the face begins. An AAJ accident report and a documentary add context rather than firsthand testimony. Journal publication years are distinguished from event dates, and the main summit is distinguished from the eastern summit.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.