GUNUNG · Pakistan
Diran
دیرن / Diran
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 7.266 m
- Country
- Pakistan (PK)
- Location / Range
- Karakoram, Lembah Bagrot / Lembah Nagar (pendekatan Minapin), Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan — bersebelahan dengan Rakaposhi
- Mountain type
- Puncak piramida salju-es Karakoram (non-vulkanik), di sebelah timur Rakaposhi
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 36.1167, 74.6667
- Difficulty
- Teknis dan berbahaya meski tampak landai: lereng salju yang rawan longsor dan retakan gletser; Trek Base Camp dari Minapin non-teknis dan bisa ditempuh pendaki umum, sementara pendakian puncak menuntut alpinisme penuh.
- Best Season
- Juni–Agustus untuk pendakian puncak; Trek Base Camp Minapin (Hapakun–Tagaphari) nyaman Mei–September.
- Permits & Rules
- Pendakian puncak >7.000 m memerlukan royalty permit pemerintah Pakistan lewat operator berlisensi; Trek Base Camp dari Minapin di Lembah Nagar tidak butuh izin panjat khusus namun memasuki kawasan pegunungan Gilgit-Baltistan.
- Hazards
- Reputasi sebagai gunung 'penipu' — lereng bersalju yang tampak mudah namun sangat rawan longsoran dan retakan gletser tersembunyi; cuaca cepat berubah dan salju dalam telah menggagalkan banyak ekspedisi awal serta memakan korban jiwa.
Description
Diran (7,266 m) is a pyramid-shaped peak in the Karakoram range in the Bagrot Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan — standing just east of Rakaposhi (7,788 m) and often seen paired with it from the Nagar Valley. Although its snowy profile looks gentler than its jagged neighbour, Diran has a reputation as a deceptive and dangerous mountain: its seemingly easy snow slopes hide avalanche danger and hidden crevasses, and a number of climbers have died on it. The first ascent only succeeded in 1968, in alpine style, by three Austrian mountaineers — Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell — after a string of failed attempts: British (1958), German (1959) and Austrian (1964) expeditions were each driven back by bad weather, deep snow and avalanches. Beyond the summit route for alpinists, the Diran Base Camp Trek from the village of Minapin in the Nagar Valley — across the Hapakun and Tagaphari meadows and the glacier below the Rakaposhi–Diran wall — has grown popular as an adventure trek achievable by ordinary hikers. Geologically Diran is a non-volcanic Karakoram snow-and-ice peak, not a volcano.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Rute gaya-alpine sisi selatan (rute pendakian pertama 1968)
Alpine teknis — lereng salju rawan longsor & retakan gletserThe route that first climbed Diran in 1968, alpine-style, by three Austrian mountaineers — Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell. Unlike earlier attempts (British 1958, German 1959, Austrian 1964) turned back by bad weather, deep snow and avalanches, the Austrian team forced the mountain's snow slopes. Despite its gentle-looking profile, the summit route demands high vigilance for avalanches and hidden crevasses.
SourceTrek Base Camp Diran dari Minapin (Hapakun–Tagaphari)
Non-teknis (trek), medan tinggi & gletserA popular approach for ordinary hikers: from the village of Minapin in the Nagar Valley the trail climbs through the Hapakun and then Tagaphari meadows to a base camp below the Rakaposhi–Diran wall, along the edge of the Minapin Glacier. The trek offers paired views of Rakaposhi (7,788 m) and Diran (7,266 m) plus small lakes such as Kacheli, and can be done without ice-climbing gear.
SourceClimbing Experiences
Most Diran footage centres on the Base Camp Trek from Minapin in the Nagar Valley — crossing the Hapakun/Tagaphari meadows and the glacier below the Rakaposhi–Diran wall — plus local travel vlogs highlighting its snowy pyramid. Below are several verified real clips.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.