GUNUNG · Nepal

Dhaulagiri I

धौलागिरी (Dhaulagiri)

Information

Elevation: 8.167 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Dhaulagiri Himal, Himalayas
Mountain type: Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.6961, 83.4933
Difficulty: Extreme (8,000 m, a technical and remote climb)
Best Season: April–May & October
Permits & Rules: Nepal government expedition permit + guide
Hazards: Avalanches, storms, extreme altitude, remote access

Description

Dhaulagiri I is the world's 7th-highest mountain at 8,167 metres and the highest mountain located entirely within one country (Nepal). West of the Kali Gandaki gorge, its name means 'White Mountain' in Sanskrit; a non-volcanic orogenic peak, it was first climbed in 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Timur Laut (Northeast Ridge) — rute normal (jalur first-ascent 1960)

Serius dan terbuka, tidak terlalu teknis tetapi curam; menuntut keterampilan tali tetap dan ketahanan ketinggian ekstrem, dengan bahaya objektif tinggi dari longsoran dan badai

Ekspedisi total ±6–7 minggu (sekitar 31–50 hari, termasuk trek pendekatan dan rotasi aklimatisasi)

The Northeast Ridge is Dhaulagiri's standard route, pioneered by the Swiss/Austrian first-ascent team in 1960 and used by most expeditions since. From Base Camp (~4,700 m) the route establishes three high camps: Camp 1 (~5,900 m on the col, with crevasse and avalanche hazard), Camp 2 (~6,400–6,600 m via steep fixed-rope climbing), and Camp 3 (~7,400 m) along the icy ridge. Summit day climbs fixed ropes on the northeast side, typically 6–8 hours to the 8,167 m top in good weather. Dhaulagiri's exposed position produces prolonged storm cycles; spring (Mar–May) and autumn (Sep–Nov) are the climbing seasons.

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Safety Statistics

High risk

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

12.6% Fatality rate per successful summit

87 Recorded deaths

691 Summits

Period 1960–2024 · Cumulative since the 1960 first ascent through the 2024 season: 691 successful ascents, 87 recorded deaths (Wikipedia, compiled from 8000ers/Himalayan Database). The 12.6% ratio = 87 divided by 691, pure arithmetic from two sourced figures — the source does not state a percentage directly. · rate computed from sourced totals

Causes of death

Avalanche est.

💡 Avalanches are the most frequent killer on Dhaulagiri (the 1969, 1975, 1998 and 1999 expeditions were all hit); watch avalanche forecasts, avoid slopes loaded with fresh snow and never camp in an avalanche path.
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Fall est.

💡 Falls on steep, icy terrain are a common cause of death; use fixed ropes, crampons and an ice axe, and don't push a descent while severely exhausted.
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Altitude illness (AMS/HACE/HAPE) est.

💡 Above 8,000 m (the death zone) the body cannot acclimatise; acclimatise gradually, limit time at extreme altitude, and descend immediately if HACE/HAPE symptoms appear.
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Severe weather est.

💡 Dhaulagiri's weather is highly variable and often forces summit bids to be abandoned; respect weather windows, plan a turnaround, and never chase the summit into a storm.
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Notable incidents

1960 First ascent of Dhaulagiri I via the Northeast Ridge (13 May 1960)

A Swiss-Austrian team made the first ascent on 13 May 1960 via the Northeast Ridge, which became the standard route. The Northeast Ridge is notoriously avalanche-prone and was the site of several later tragedies.
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1969 Avalanche kills 7 members of an American expedition (1969)

Seven climbers of an American expedition were swept away and killed by an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1969 — one of the mountain's worst avalanche disasters and a reminder of how deadly its snow-loaded slopes are. The focus is the safety lesson, not the victims' identities.
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1975 Avalanche kills 6 members of a Japanese expedition (1975)

Six climbers of a Japanese expedition were killed in an avalanche while attempting the southwest ridge in 1975. The incident underscored that Dhaulagiri's technical routes are as exposed to avalanche as the standard line.
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2024 Five climbers die on a single expedition (October 2024)

In early October 2024 five climbers were reported missing and later found dead on Dhaulagiri — evidence that fatal risk remains high even with modern gear and forecasting. A turnaround plan and weather margin still decide outcomes.
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Statistics source: Source Source

Climbing Experiences

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) is the world's seventh-highest mountain and the westernmost eight-thousander in Nepal, notorious for its exposed position between the Tibetan plateau and the southern monsoon, which brings long storm cycles and avalanche danger. The videos and guide below document real expeditions — from a full expedition series to genuine summit footage and accounts of avalanche hazard at base camp. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.