GUNUNG · Nepal

Dhaulagiri I

धौलागिरी (Dhaulagiri)

Information

Elevation: 8.167 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Dhaulagiri Himal, Himalayas
Mountain type: Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.6961, 83.4933
Difficulty: Extreme (8,000 m, a technical and remote climb)
Best Season: April–May & October
Permits & Rules: Nepal government expedition permit + guide
Hazards: Avalanches, storms, extreme altitude, remote access

Description

Dhaulagiri I is the world's 7th-highest mountain at 8,167 metres and the highest mountain located entirely within one country (Nepal). West of the Kali Gandaki gorge, its name means 'White Mountain' in Sanskrit; a non-volcanic orogenic peak, it was first climbed in 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Timur Laut (Northeast Ridge) — rute normal (jalur first-ascent 1960)

Serius dan terbuka, tidak terlalu teknis tetapi curam; menuntut keterampilan tali tetap dan ketahanan ketinggian ekstrem, dengan bahaya objektif tinggi dari longsoran dan badai

Ekspedisi total ±6–7 minggu (sekitar 31–50 hari, termasuk trek pendekatan dan rotasi aklimatisasi)

The Northeast Ridge is Dhaulagiri's standard route, pioneered by the Swiss/Austrian first-ascent team in 1960 and used by most expeditions since. From Base Camp (~4,700 m) the route establishes three high camps: Camp 1 (~5,900 m on the col, with crevasse and avalanche hazard), Camp 2 (~6,400–6,600 m via steep fixed-rope climbing), and Camp 3 (~7,400 m) along the icy ridge. Summit day climbs fixed ropes on the northeast side, typically 6–8 hours to the 8,167 m top in good weather. Dhaulagiri's exposed position produces prolonged storm cycles; spring (Mar–May) and autumn (Sep–Nov) are the climbing seasons.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) is the world's seventh-highest mountain and the westernmost eight-thousander in Nepal, notorious for its exposed position between the Tibetan plateau and the southern monsoon, which brings long storm cycles and avalanche danger. The videos and guide below document real expeditions — from a full expedition series to genuine summit footage and accounts of avalanche hazard at base camp. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.