GUNUNG · United States

Denali

Denali (sebelumnya: Mount McKinley)

Information

Elevation: 6.190 m
Country: United States (US)
Location / Range: Alaska Range, Alaska, USA — within Denali National Park & Preserve, managed by the NPS
Mountain type: Granite mountain (non-volcanic, batholith)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 63.0692, -151.0064
Difficulty: Extremely strenuous (a multi-week expedition; moderately technical on the West Buttress route—crampons, ice axe, fixed ropes on the Headwall section; the main challenges: extreme Alaskan weather, −40 °C temperatures, sled loads, the altitude of 6,190 m, and a duration of 17–21 days)
Best Season: May–July (early-to-mid June is optimal; 20+ hours of daylight; the route begins to open in May from the Kahiltna Glacier)
Permits & Rules: A Denali Climbing Permit is MANDATORY from the NPS ($375 USD adults, $275 USD age ≤24 as of 2024); must be registered at least 60 days before departure with the Talkeetna Ranger Station; a ski flight to Kahiltna Base Camp (usually via Talkeetna Air Taxi); total expedition cost including logistics is generally $5,000–$10,000+
Hazards: Extreme temperatures (−40 °C or colder with wind chill); sudden arctic storms and whiteouts; hidden crevasses on the Kahiltna Glacier; AMS/HAPE/HACE risk above 5,000 m; strong winds at Windy Corner and Denali Pass; remote location in Alaska (slow and expensive evacuation); avalanches on the Headwall

Description

Denali (6,190 m / 20,310 ft), also known as Mount McKinley until 2015, is the highest peak in North America and the apex of Alaska. Its vertical relief from base to summit (~5,500 m) ranks it among the greatest on Earth. Located within Denali National Park & Preserve, a typical expedition runs 17–21 days. The dominant route is the West Buttress (>90% of climbers): fly by ski plane onto Kahiltna Glacier (~2,200 m), haul heavy sleds through Camps 1–5, and push for the summit via Denali Pass. Temperatures can plunge to −40 °C, Arctic storms arrive without warning, and the average success rate hovers around 50%. An NPS climbing permit ($375 for adults) is mandatory and must be secured at least 60 days prior through the Talkeetna Ranger Station.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Cassin Ridge — Sisi Selatan (Rute Klasik Teknis)

Ekstrem (ED; teknis tinggi, es & batuan)

+4000 m 18–25 hari

One of the most prestigious routes in North America, first climbed by Riccardo Cassin and his Italian team in 1961. The route follows an ice and rock spur on the southern (colder, more remote) aspect through a bergschrund, steep ice couloirs, rock bands, and a narrow summit ridge. Demands advanced ice and rock skills, experience on long expeditions in extreme weather, and a well-trained team. Not appropriate for first-time Denali climbers.

West Buttress (Rute Standar)

Berat–Sangat berat (PD+/AD)

+4000 m 17–21 hari (termasuk aklimatisasi & cuaca)

The standard route followed by >90% of Denali climbers. Fly by ski plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Base Camp (2,200 m), then haul heavy sleds through Camps 1–4 and High Camp (5,240 m) before the summit push via Denali Pass. Low-to-moderate technical demand (crampons, ice axe, fixed lines on the ~45° Headwall), but the real challenge is Arctic weather, temperatures of −40 °C, heavy sled loads, and the long expedition timeline.

West Rib

Sangat berat (AD/D; teknis)

+4200 m 18–22 hari

A more technical and quieter line parallel to the West Buttress, involving steeper ice couloirs and ridge sections requiring advanced alpine skills. Typically chosen by experienced climbers seeking more challenge than the West Buttress without the full commitment of the Cassin Ridge.

Safety Statistics

High risk

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

0.31% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

96 Recorded deaths

Period 1903–2006 · High Altitude Medicine & Biology study (2008): 96 deaths over 1903–2006, a fatality rate of 3.08 per 1,000 summit attempts (per-attempt basis). 45% were from falls, 61% occurred on the descent, 92% were male. The mandatory NPS registration system introduced in 1995 cut fatalities by ~53%. The cumulative total exceeds 130 deaths as of 2026 (NPS). About 1,000–1,100 climbers register each year; summit success typically hovers below 50%.

Causes of death

Fall 45.00%

💡 45% of deaths are from falls and 61% happen on descent — fatigue on the Denali Pass traverse and West Buttress is the biggest killer. Save energy for the descent, stay roped, and protect exposed traverses.
Source
Exposure / hypothermia

💡 Denali sits at high latitude (63°N), so temperatures can plunge well below −40°C and storms can last for days (the 1967 disaster). Carry a logistical margin for being pinned down, recognise hypothermia/frostbite signs, and never push into a storm for the summit.
Source
Altitude illness (AMS/HACE/HAPE)

💡 Extreme cold and lower barometric pressure at high latitude make altitude hit harder than an equivalent peak in the tropics. Acclimatise gradually, follow 'climb high, sleep low', and descend the moment symptoms worsen.
Source
Crevasse fall

💡 The approach across the Kahiltna Glacier is riddled with hidden crevasses under snow bridges. Always travel roped as a team, be fluent in crevasse rescue, and beware snow bridges that weaken during the day.
Source

Notable incidents

1967 1967 Mount McKinley disaster — 7 deaths

In July 1967, seven of the twelve members of the Wilcox Expedition died when a severe multi-day blizzard pinned them high near the summit as they waited to descend. It remains the deadliest incident in Denali's history and a classic case study in storm management, logistical reserves, and timely retreat at extreme altitude.
Source

Statistics source: Source Source

Climbing Experiences

Denali (6,190 m), North America's highest peak in Alaska, is a long, brutally cold expedition — usually via the West Buttress from the Kahiltna Glacier over 2–3 weeks. Climbers highlight savage weather, altitude, and heavy sled hauls.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.