GUNUNG · Turki

Demirkazık Peak

Demirkazık Dağı

Information

Elevation: 3.756 m
Country: Turki (TR)
Location / Range: Aladağlar (Anti-Toros / Toros Tengah), Distrik Çamardı, Provinsi Niğde, Turki — Taman Nasional Aladağlar
Mountain type: Gunung batu gamping (karst) berbentuk kerucut — puncak alpin di Pegunungan Aladağlar / Toros Tengah
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 37.8357, 35.1501
Difficulty: Berat / alpin teknis. Rute normal berupa scrambling curam di medan batu gamping lepas; dinding utara dan kulvar (mis. Hodgkin–Peck) adalah panjatan teknis multi-pitch untuk pendaki berpengalaman
Best Season: Akhir Juni–September untuk rute normal (bebas salju). Musim dingin adalah mountaineering serius dengan salju dan es keras
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin puncak khusus; berada dalam kawasan Taman Nasional Aladağlar. Basis pendakian umumnya desa Çukurbağ/Demirkazık atau perkemahan Sokullupınar; pemandu lokal sangat dianjurkan untuk rute atas
Hazards: Batu gamping lepas dan runtuhan batu (rockfall) di kulvar; eksposur tinggi dan orientasi sulit di zona puncak berbatu; perubahan cuaca cepat, kabut, dan badai petir sore hari di musim panas; tidak ada gletser tetapi salju keras di kulvar sisa musim

Description

Demirkazık (Demirkazık Dağı / Büyük Demirkazık, 3,756 m) is the most iconic peak of the Aladağlar range, part of the Taurus Mountains in south-central Turkey, administratively within the Çamardı district of Niğde Province. Its name means 'iron stake' — the Turkish term for the Pole Star (Polaris), and it is shared by several summits in Turkey. A sharp limestone cone rising abruptly above the Çukurbağ plain, Demirkazık is a magnet for hikers and climbers: although the Turkish Geography Atlas records its height as 3,756 m, it may not be the absolute highest point of the Aladağlar (the summit of Kızılkaya rivals it), yet its profile and walls make it the range's most coveted peak. The first recorded ascent was in July 1927 by Georg Künne, Wilhelm and Marianne Martin, Veli Çavuş and their guide Yunus. Today Demirkazık offers the full spectrum: a normal route of steep scrambling from the southern side for fit mountaineers, up to the technical north face and couloirs (such as the Hodgkin–Peck line) that form a chapter of their own in Turkish climbing history. The Aladağlar area — with the Emli valley, high lakes and limestone walls — is one of the best-known trekking and alpinism playgrounds in the Middle East–Anatolia.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding & kulvar utara (rute teknis, mis. Hodgkin–Peck)

Sangat berat / teknis alpin; panjat multi-pitch di batu gamping dan kulvar bersalju/es — hanya untuk pemanjat berpengalaman dengan perlengkapan lengkap

1–2 hari (pendakian teknis multi-pitch)

Demirkazık's north side offers walls and couloirs that form a historic technical-climbing arena in Turkish alpinism, including classic lines such as the Hodgkin–Peck. These routes are multi-pitch climbs on steep limestone, sometimes with hard snow and ice in the couloirs late in the season, requiring ropes, protection and alpine-climbing experience. Not for general hikers — undertaken by experienced teams, often early in the season when the couloirs still hold stable snow/ice.

Source

Rute normal dari sisi selatan (Çukurbağ / Sokullupınar)

Berat / alpin. Scrambling curam di batu gamping lepas dengan eksposur; bukan jalur trekking biasa — perlu pengalaman mountaineering dan disarankan pemandu

1–2 hari (basis di Çukurbağ/Sokullupınar; hari puncak panjang, ±8–12 jam pulang-pergi)

The most common route to the summit of Büyük Demirkazık, starting from the Çukurbağ/Demirkazık village or the Sokullupınar camp on the southern side. After approaching the base of the wall via slopes and couloirs, the route turns into steep scrambling over loose karst limestone with high exposure toward the summit ridge. Although in dry conditions it does not always require full roped climbing, the terrain demands fitness, route-finding and vigilance against rockfall — many climbers hire a local Aladağlar guide. It is done mainly from late June to September when snow-free.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Demirkazık (3,756 m) is the most coveted limestone cone in Turkey's Aladağlar range. Its normal route is steep, demanding scrambling, while its north walls and couloirs are a technical climbing arena. The clips below — almost all from Turkish-speaking local climbers — show the journey to the summit of Büyük Demirkazık: from exposed limestone scrambling to the summit zone with its Aladağlar panorama, a real picture of the mountain's alpine character.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.