GUNUNG · Brasil
Dedo de Deus
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 1.692 m
- Country
- Brasil (BR)
- Location / Range
- Serra dos Órgãos, Taman Nasional Serra dos Órgãos (PARNASO), Rio de Janeiro
- Mountain type
- Menara/jarum granit (agulha) ikonik berbentuk jari yang menunjuk
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- -22.4983, -43.0525
- Difficulty
- Berat–teknis (panjat tebing multi-pitch; Via Teixeira grade 3, Face Leste grade 4)
- Best Season
- Musim dingin belahan bumi selatan (Mei–September) yang kering dan stabil
- Permits & Rules
- Wajib lapor dan mendaftar di kantor PARNASO/ICMBio serta menandatangani Termo de Conhecimento de Riscos sebelum memanjat
- Hazards
- Paparan ketinggian di dinding vertikal, batu lepas, cuaca cepat berubah & kabut, aktivitas sepenuh hari (~12 jam naik-turun) yang menuntut manajemen tali & rappel
Description
Dedo de Deus ('God's Finger', 1,692 m) is an iconic granite tower in the Serra dos Órgãos range of Rio de Janeiro, within Serra dos Órgãos National Park (PARNASO). Its silhouette—resembling a clenched hand with an upward-pointing finger—makes it one of Brazil's most recognisable landforms. The summit was first reached in April 1912 by a group of young men from Teresópolis via what is now called the Teixeira route, an event regarded as the birth of Brazilian mountaineering. Rather than a hike, reaching the top is a multi-pitch rock climb: the Teixeira route is graded 3 (the classic line and also the rappel descent), while the East Face is harder at grade 4. The round trip averages about 12 hours, so it is usually done with a guide and must be registered at the park office. From the summit the view spans the pinnacles of the Serra dos Órgãos and the lowlands toward Guanabara Bay.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Face Leste (dinding timur grade 4)
Teknis — panjat tebing grade 4 (IV), termasuk variante Maria CebolaJalur yang lebih sulit menaiki dinding timur (Face Leste) dengan grade 4, mencakup variante seperti Maria Cebola. Menuntut kemampuan panjat tebing yang lebih tinggi dan manajemen tali yang cermat; umumnya turun kembali lewat rappel di Via Teixeira.
Via Teixeira (jalur klasik grade 3)
Teknis — panjat tebing grade 3 (III)Jalur klasik dan paling umum untuk memuncaki Dedo de Deus, dibuka pada pendakian perdana April 1912 oleh pemuda Teresópolis. Berupa panjat tebing multi-pitch bergrade 3, dan sekaligus menjadi jalur rappel untuk turun. Wajib mendaftar di kantor PARNASO dan menandatangani pernyataan risiko sebelum memanjat.
Climbing Experiences
Reaching the top of Dedo de Deus is multi-pitch rock climbing, not a hike—usually via the classic Teixeira route (the normal line, first climbed 1912) or harder faces such as the South Face, with a round trip of about 12 hours. Textual sources detail a ~45-minute approach to the base of the cabos de aço (roughly 100 m of steel-cable climbing), then the enfiadas (pitches) with a crack/fenda and walking along the abyss, before rappelling on descent. Climbers stress the vertical exposure, rope and rappel skills, and the panorama of the Serra dos Órgãos pinnacles. The sources below capture Teixeira-route climbs, the traverse past the massif, a first-person traverse trip report, a route-database description and the 1912 first-ascent history.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.