GUNUNG · Mexico
Citlaltepetl
Pico de Orizaba
Source
Photo: source
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- Feels like
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 5.636 m
- Country
- Mexico (MX)
- Location / Range
- Sierra Nevada / Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt
- Mountain type
- Volcano
- Volcanic?
- Yes — volcano
- Coordinates
- 19.0300, -97.2700
- Difficulty
- Strenuous (technical glacier travel, extreme altitude)
- Best Season
- November–March (dry season, compacted snow)
- Permits & Rules
- No formal permit required; a local guide is strongly recommended. Pico de Orizaba National Park is jointly managed by the states of Puebla and Veracruz.
- Hazards
- Altitude sickness (the starting point is already 4,270 m), crevasses on the Jamapa Glacier, strong winds, sudden storms, seracs and ice avalanches on technical routes; the volcano last erupted in 1846.
Description
Citlaltepetl—better known as Pico de Orizaba (5,636 m)—is Mexico's highest peak and third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. Its Nahuatl name means 'Star Mountain'. This stratovolcano, last active in 1846, straddles the Veracruz–Puebla border inside Pico de Orizaba National Park. Three glaciers drape its flanks: the Jamapa Glacier on the north is the standard route from Refugio Piedra Grande (4,270 m); the south side offers a shorter approach from Ciudad Serdán via the Fausto González hut; and the Oriental Glacier on the east is the most technically demanding, laced with seracs and crevasses. Climbers need crampons, ice axes, and careful acclimatisation, as even the base camp sits above 4,000 m.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Glasier Jamapa (Ruta Normal — Sisi Utara)
Sedang–Berat (glasier 20–40°, butuh crampon & kapak es)Most popular route: from Refugio Piedra Grande (4,270 m), navigate the 'Labyrinth' of glacial seracs, then ascend the Jamapa Glacier at 20–40° slope to the summit. Summit bids typically start 01:00–02:00 to catch firm snow. Crampons, ice axe, and 1–2 days of acclimatisation at the hut are essential.
Route Segments
- 1
Piedra Grande → Labyrinth
Medan batuan vulkanik, beberapa bagian bersalju; orientasi dalam gelap sering menjadi tantangan
- 2
Labyrinth → Bibir Kawah
Glasier Jamapa, kemiringan bertahap 20° lalu hingga 40° menjelang puncak; crampon & kapak es wajib
Glasier Oriental (Rute Teknis Tinggi)
Sangat Berat (teknis es, serac, crevasse)The most technical route on Orizaba: ascending the Oriental Glacier on the east face, ~1.2 km long with a gradient of 440 m/km. The glacier is riddled with crevasses, seracs, and vertical ice sections requiring advanced ice-climbing technique—only for experienced technical alpinists.
Sisi Selatan via Ciudad Serdán (Ruta Sur)
Sedang (lebih pendek, medan mirip jalur utama)Approach from Chalchicomula de Sesma (Ciudad Serdán) in Puebla state, driving a 4WD to the Fausto González hut (~4,661 m). The south face route has a shorter vertical gain and compact terrain, though snow and ice conditions are more variable; far less traffic than the Jamapa Glacier.
Climbing Experiences
Pico de Orizaba / Citlaltépetl (5,636 m), Mexico's highest peak and North America's highest volcano. The Jamapa Glacier route needs crampons & ice axe with an alpine start. Climbers highlight the cold glacier and altitude.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.