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GUNUNG · Nepal

Chulu East

Chulu

Source
Chulu East

Massif Chulu (termasuk Chulu East, 6.584 m) di Manang, Nepal — foto kawasan massif Chulu. Photo: source

Information

Elevation
6.584 m
Country
Nepal (NP)
Location / Range
Massif Chulu, Damodar/Manang Himal, sisi utara Sirkuit Annapurna, Distrik Manang, Nepal
Mountain type
Puncak ekspedisi 6.500-an di massif Chulu (Manang) — lebih tinggi dan menantang dari puncak trekking biasa; bagian dari gugusan Chulu (East, West, Far East)
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
28.7361, 84.0347
Difficulty
Menengah–teknis (PD/PD+): pendakian glasial dengan lereng salju/es curam, seracs, dan punggung puncak; menuntut keterampilan alpine dan tali tetap
Best Season
Maret–Mei dan September–November (pra/pasca-monsun, langit stabil)
Permits & Rules
Izin puncak (NMA/kelompok ekspedisi), izin Kawasan Konservasi Annapurna (ACAP) & TIMS; umumnya via operator berlisensi dari Manang/Ngawal
Hazards
Medan glasier bercrevasse, seracs dan lereng es curam di bagian atas, penyakit ketinggian di atas 6.000 m, cuaca cepat berubah, dan dingin/angin di punggung puncak

Description

Chulu East (6,584 m) is an expedition peak in the Chulu massif rising on the northern side of the Annapurna Circuit in Manang District, Nepal. Together with Chulu West and Chulu Far East, it forms a cluster of summits popular with climbers stepping up from 'trekking peaks' to a more technically demanding 6,500 m ascent. The climb usually starts from the villages of Manang or Ngawal, ascending through base camp and a high (col) camp above the glacier, then pushing to the summit via steep snow and ice slopes and a summit ridge requiring crampons, ice axe and fixed rope. Sitting on Annapurna's drier northern (rain-shadow) side, weather is relatively stable, but the altitude and glaciated terrain still demand thorough acclimatisation — many expeditions pair it with the Annapurna Circuit trek as preparation. From the summit, the panorama spans Annapurna II–IV, Gangapurna, Tilicho, the Damodar Himal cluster and the Tibetan plateau to the north. Chulu East is often regarded as a stepping stone toward the larger expedition peaks of the Himalaya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Manang/Ngawal → Base Camp → Col Camp → Puncak (punggung NE/lereng salju)

PD/PD+ (menengah–teknis): lereng salju/es curam, medan glasier bercrevasse, punggung puncak dengan tali tetap
Ekspedisi 15–20 hari (termasuk trek aklimatisasi Sirkuit Annapurna); inti 2–3 hari dari base camp

The standard Chulu East route starts from the villages of Manang or Ngawal on the northern side of the Annapurna Circuit. Climbers ascend through forest and high pastures to a base camp (~4,900 m), then set a col/high camp (~5,300–5,500 m) above the glacier. The summit push leaves pre-dawn, crossing crevassed glacier terrain, climbing steep snow and ice slopes, and following the summit ridge to the 6,584 m top — a technical section requiring crampons, ice axe and fixed rope. Acclimatisation on the preceding Annapurna trek greatly aids success. The northern rain-shadow keeps weather relatively stable, but altitude and seracs remain the main risks.

Route Segments

  1. 1

    Manang/Ngawal → Base Camp

    ⏱ 5–7 jam 4.900 mdpl

    Naik lewat hutan dan padang tinggi di sisi utara Annapurna; aklimatisasi dari trek circuit

  2. 2

    Base Camp → Col/High Camp

    ⏱ 4–6 jam 5.400 mdpl

    Naik ke kamp tinggi di atas gletser; mulai teknik tali & crampon

  3. 3

    Col Camp → Puncak Chulu East (6.584 m)

    ⏱ 6–9 jam pergi (dini hari) 6.584 mdpl

    Medan glasier bercrevasse, lereng es curam, dan punggung puncak dengan tali tetap

Source

Climbing Experiences

Chulu East draws climbers stepping up to a 6,500 m ascent on Annapurna's northern side. The footage below covers real experiences in the Chulu massif — some focused on Chulu East (6,584 m), some on the neighbouring Chulu Far East within the same massif — depicting the approach from Manang/Ngawal, the col camp above the glacier, and the snowy summit push.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Chulu East en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Chulu East (Q134513933) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 Official Site Nepal Mountaineering Association — otoritas izin puncak Nepal nepalmountaineering.org · EN
  4. 4 wikivoyage Annapurna Circuit en.wikivoyage.org · EN