GUNUNG · Pakistan

Chogolisa

乔戈里萨峰 / Bride Peak

Chogolisa ('Bride Peak') dilihat dari arah K2, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.668 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Baltoro Muztagh, Pegunungan Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan; di dekat Concordia dan Gletser Baltoro
Mountain type: Gunung berpuncak ganda (non-vulkanik); puncak utama di barat daya, Bride Peak di timur laut
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.6106, 76.5744
Difficulty: Sangat sulit — puncak 7.000-an teknis dengan medan salju-es curam dan cornice berbahaya; hanya untuk pendaki ketinggian berpengalaman gaya ekspedisi/alpine
Best Season: Laporan ekspedisi mendokumentasikan kegiatan musim panas; cuaca buruk dan longsoran tetap dapat menggagalkan pendakian.
Permits & Rules: Status izin dan akses terkini tidak ditetapkan oleh laporan ekspedisi historis yang dirujuk.
Hazards: Cornice rapuh, longsoran slab, serac, celah gletser, badai, dan penyakit ketinggian; laporan 1993 mencatat pembatalan pendakian karena cornice ganda.

Description

Chogolisa is a non-volcanic twin-summited mountain in the Karakoram of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Its main summit is southwest: Wikidata lists 7,668 m, while Wikipedia and the AAJ traverse report use 7,665 m. The northeast summit, Chogolisa II or Bride Peak, is lower at about 7,654 m. Fujihira and Hirai reached the northeast summit in 1958; Gustav Ammerer and Fred Pressl first climbed the southwest summit in 1975. Kurt Diemberger describes Hermann Buhl dying after a cornice collapsed during their retreat in 1957. Later expedition accounts distinguish the Kaberi and Vigne approaches and record retreats prompted by dangerous snow conditions.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute historis 1975: Gletser Kaberi–punggungan barat–puncak barat daya

Ekspedisi teknis; icefall dan lereng es sekitar 50° dalam laporan 1975

The Austrian expedition approached the south side via Kaberi, crossed an icefall and ice wall to a col, then followed the west ridge to the main summit. Difficult sections used fixed ropes. This historical route description does not establish present access or conditions.

Source

Rute historis 1986: Vigne–punggungan barat daya–lintasan dua puncak

Alpinisme ketinggian; punggungan sempit dengan cornice besar

Fanshawe’s team climbed the northwest face of the southwest ridge from the head of the Vigne Glacier, reached the southwest summit, and traversed to northeast Bride Peak. The account stresses fragile cornices; this is a historical climbing traverse, not a trekking trail.

Source

Climbing Experiences

These six accounts combine climbing footage with expedition members’ reports: the 1957 tragedy, the 1975 ascent and 1986 twin-summit traverse, and attempts abandoned in 1993 and 1995. Historical reports describe conditions at the time, rather than current access or route conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.