GUNUNG · Pakistan

Chogolisa

乔戈里萨峰 / Bride Peak

Chogolisa ('Bride Peak') dilihat dari arah K2, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.665 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Baltoro Muztagh, Pegunungan Karakoram — Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan; di dekat Concordia dan Gletser Baltoro
Mountain type: Gunung bersalju berpuncak ganda (non-vulkanik) dengan cornice/gantungan salju besar — puncak timur laut ~7.665 m dikenal sebagai 'Bride Peak'
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.6106, 76.5744
Difficulty: Sangat sulit — puncak 7.000-an teknis dengan medan salju-es curam dan cornice berbahaya; hanya untuk pendaki ketinggian berpengalaman gaya ekspedisi/alpine
Best Season: Musim panas Karakoram, sekitar Juni–Agustus
Permits & Rules: Izin ekspedisi/peak fee Gilgit-Baltistan, pemandu & porter dari Askole via operator resmi; akses lewat trek Gletser Baltoro–Concordia
Hazards: Cornice (gantungan salju) besar dan rapuh di punggungan puncak — penyebab kematian Hermann Buhl pada 1957; kabut tebal, badai, longsoran salju, dan bahaya ketinggian ekstrem

Description

Chogolisa (~7,665 m) is a twin-summited snow peak in the Baltoro Muztagh of the Karakoram, in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, close to the Concordia glacier junction. Its graceful northeast summit is nicknamed 'Bride Peak' for its bridal-veil shape, while the southwest summit is slightly lower. The mountain holds a poignant place in mountaineering history as the site of Hermann Buhl's death in June 1957: after the first ascent of Broad Peak, Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa alpine-style, but Buhl broke through a collapsing snow cornice in fog and his body was never found. The first ascent of the northeast summit came only on 4 August 1958, by two Japanese climbers from Kyoto, Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai. The terrain is dominated by steep snow and ice with large, fragile cornices along the summit ridge, keeping Chogolisa a rare objective for technical expedition teams. In the modern era it has served as an acclimatization and climbing objective for alpinists such as David Lama and Peter Ortner. Access requires a long trek up the Baltoro Glacier from Askole via Concordia.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Pendekatan via Gletser Baltoro–Concordia (Askole)

Trek gletser panjang menuju kaki gunung

Sekitar 7–8 hari trek dari Askole ke Concordia

Access to Chogolisa follows the classic Baltoro Glacier route from Askole to Concordia, the glacier junction ringed by Karakoram giants. From there expedition teams reach base camp and begin the technical climb.

Source

Punggungan Timur Laut ke Puncak 'Bride Peak' (~7.665 m)

Ekspedisi salju-es teknis 7.000-an; bahaya cornice tinggi

Ekspedisi multi-minggu (aklimatisasi + camp bertahap)

The route to Chogolisa's northeast (Bride Peak) summit, first reached on 4 August 1958 by a Japanese team from Kyoto (Fujihira & Hirai). The terrain is dominated by a snow ridge with large, fragile cornices — the same ground where Hermann Buhl died in 1957.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Experiences on Chogolisa range from technical expeditions on its 7,000 m snow and ice to scenic treks toward Concordia that reveal the 'Bride Peak' skyline. Modern footage highlights efforts by alpinists such as David Lama and Peter Ortner, while the historic 1957 death of Hermann Buhl still shadows the mountain's reputation.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.