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GUNUNG · Chili

Cerro Marmolejo

Source
Cerro Marmolejo

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
6.108 m
Country
Chili (CL)
Location / Range
Cordillera Principal, Andes
Mountain type
Gunung berapi (stratovolkano tak aktif)
Volcanic?
Yes — volcano
Coordinates
-33.7171, -69.8645
Difficulty
Berat (glasier, ketinggian ekstrem)
Best Season
November–Maret (musim panas belahan selatan)
Permits & Rules
Pendakian lewat Cajón del Maipo; sebagian akses melintasi lahan pribadi/perbatasan Argentina—koordinasi dengan operator lokal disarankan.
Hazards
Ketinggian besar & risiko AMS, angin kencang penati (viento blanco), lereng glasier, cuaca berubah cepat, jarak summit day yang sangat panjang.

Description

Cerro Marmolejo (6,108 m) is the southernmost peak on Earth exceeding 6,000 m—a Pleistocene stratovolcano straddling the Chile–Argentina border, roughly 9 km north-northeast of Volcán San José. Though close to Santiago and approached through the Cajón del Maipo valley, the climb is serious: staged acclimatisation, glacier crossings, and a summit day that can run 10–14 hours. It was first climbed on 1 October 1928 by three German mountaineers—Hermann Sattler, Sebastian Krückel, and Albrecht Maass. Its high latitude makes it a genuinely extreme-altitude objective within reach of Chile's capital, yet one demanding Andean expedition-grade weather and logistics management.

Routes

Pendekatan sisi Argentina (Provinsi Mendoza)

Berat–sangat berat
+2700 m 5–7 hari

Variasi pendekatan dari sisi timur di Provinsi Mendoza, Argentina, karena puncak berdiri tepat di perbatasan Chili–Argentina. Lebih terpencil dan jarang dilalui dibanding rute Cajón del Maipo, menuntut logistik dan navigasi glasier yang lebih mandiri serta manajemen cuaca Andes yang cermat.

Rute Normal via Cajón del Maipo (Portezuelo San José)

Berat
+2600 m 4–6 hari

Jalur pendakian utama dari lembah Cajón del Maipo di sisi Chili, umumnya lewat kawasan Portezuelo dekat Volcán San José. Pendakian bersifat ekspedisi dengan aklimatisasi berlapis dan beberapa kamp ketinggian sebelum serangan puncak. Hari puncak sangat panjang—kerap 10–14 jam—menyeberangi ladang salju, medan glasier, dan punggungan atas yang lebar menuju kubah puncak 6.108 m. Meski bukan rute teknis murni, kombinasi ketinggian ekstrem, dingin, dan angin membuatnya serius.

Climbing Experiences

Cerro Marmolejo (6,108 m), the world's southernmost 6,000 m peak, approached via the Cajón del Maipo near Santiago. Climbers highlight the very long summit day, extreme cold, and glacier slopes to the summit dome.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Marmolejo en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Marmolejo (Q1535333) wikidata.org · EN