GUNUNG · Chili
Cerro Marmolejo
Source
Photo: source
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- Feels like
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- Wind
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 6.108 m
- Country
- Chili (CL)
- Location / Range
- Cordillera Principal, Andes
- Mountain type
- Gunung berapi (stratovolkano tak aktif)
- Volcanic?
- Yes — volcano
- Coordinates
- -33.7171, -69.8645
- Difficulty
- Berat (glasier, ketinggian ekstrem)
- Best Season
- November–Maret (musim panas belahan selatan)
- Permits & Rules
- Pendakian lewat Cajón del Maipo; sebagian akses melintasi lahan pribadi/perbatasan Argentina—koordinasi dengan operator lokal disarankan.
- Hazards
- Ketinggian besar & risiko AMS, angin kencang penati (viento blanco), lereng glasier, cuaca berubah cepat, jarak summit day yang sangat panjang.
Description
Cerro Marmolejo (6,108 m) is the southernmost peak on Earth exceeding 6,000 m—a Pleistocene stratovolcano straddling the Chile–Argentina border, roughly 9 km north-northeast of Volcán San José. Though close to Santiago and approached through the Cajón del Maipo valley, the climb is serious: staged acclimatisation, glacier crossings, and a summit day that can run 10–14 hours. It was first climbed on 1 October 1928 by three German mountaineers—Hermann Sattler, Sebastian Krückel, and Albrecht Maass. Its high latitude makes it a genuinely extreme-altitude objective within reach of Chile's capital, yet one demanding Andean expedition-grade weather and logistics management.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Pendekatan sisi Argentina (Provinsi Mendoza)
Berat–sangat beratVariasi pendekatan dari sisi timur di Provinsi Mendoza, Argentina, karena puncak berdiri tepat di perbatasan Chili–Argentina. Lebih terpencil dan jarang dilalui dibanding rute Cajón del Maipo, menuntut logistik dan navigasi glasier yang lebih mandiri serta manajemen cuaca Andes yang cermat.
Rute Normal via Cajón del Maipo (Portezuelo San José)
BeratJalur pendakian utama dari lembah Cajón del Maipo di sisi Chili, umumnya lewat kawasan Portezuelo dekat Volcán San José. Pendakian bersifat ekspedisi dengan aklimatisasi berlapis dan beberapa kamp ketinggian sebelum serangan puncak. Hari puncak sangat panjang—kerap 10–14 jam—menyeberangi ladang salju, medan glasier, dan punggungan atas yang lebar menuju kubah puncak 6.108 m. Meski bukan rute teknis murni, kombinasi ketinggian ekstrem, dingin, dan angin membuatnya serius.
Climbing Experiences
Cerro Marmolejo (6,108 m), the world's southernmost 6,000 m peak, approached via the Cajón del Maipo near Santiago. Climbers highlight the very long summit day, extreme cold, and glacier slopes to the summit dome.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.